France et Moi with author Keith Van Sickle

Keith Van Sickle and wife Val

Welcome to ‘France et Moi’ where this week I am talking to author Keith Van Sickle about what France means to him.

Ten years ago, Keith and his wife Val turned their lives upside down when they quit their American jobs to live part-time in Provence. Without speaking French. They had previously been expats in Switzerland and had tried but failed to find another expat assignment. So they decided to invent their own, becoming consultants to have the flexibility to travel more. Now they split their time between California and Provence, enjoying what each has to offer.

Firstly, I think France is a special place and it is famed for many things including its cheese, wine and diverse holiday locations plus, dare I say it, strikes and dog poo littered streets. What do you think makes France so very unique and ‘French’?

Keith: Because my wife and I live in both Provence and California’s “Silicon Valley,” we really notice the difference between the two places. Silicon Valley is very go go go while Provence moves at the pace of the seasons rather than the speed of the Internet. This allows us to slow down and spend hours around the dinner table or over a glass of wine when we are in France. And that’s what is especially “French” to me—the emphasis on the pleasure of small things. 

2) What is your fondest memory of time spent in France?

Keith: We’ve made a circle of wonderful French friends in Provence and we spend a lot of time together. We don’t do anything extraordinary—a picnic, a bike ride, a visit to a winery—but we have a lot of fun. We often talk about the differences between our two countries, which is always fascinating. It’s really broadened my view of the world, helping me see things through French eyes. I guess you could say those are my fondest memories, spending time with our French friends.

3) You and your wife regularly spend three months a year immersing yourselves into life in France, what is the best thing about this, and the scariest thing?

Keith: Spending time with our French friends is by far the best thing about my French life.

As for the scariest thing…probably the scariest thing in any foreign country, France or otherwise, is if you need medical care. Can you communicate properly? Will you get good care? Will it be expensive? Unfortunately, I’ve had to see doctors in France not once but twice and happily both times everything turned out fine. 

In one case, the doctor was very formal and rather aggressive, bombarding me with questions that I struggled to answer in French. Eventually he softened up and started chatting with me about California. When we got to the subject of wine (he was French, after all) he found out that I love wine, too, and the next thing I knew we were invited to a private tasting at his friend’s famous winery! That was a memorable day, indeed.

4) Do you have any top tips for learning French?

Keith: Yes—language partners! The best way to improve in any language is to engage in conversation. But who wants to chat with someone like you who is just learning the language? The answer is: someone in the same position, a French person who is learning English. You meet and talk, with you stumbling along in French for a while and then switching so the other person can stumble along in English. You are both patient with the other because you are each going through the same thing. Language partners, both in France and via Skype, have really helped my learning and as a bonus I’ve become friends with many of them.

5) Do you have any embarrassing language mishaps you are happy to share?

Keith: More than I can count! Here’s a funny one: we once invited a couple and their two young daughters to dinner at our house. When I brought out the cheese course, one of the fromages was a goat cheese covered in edible ash. The father of the family asked me what it was and I knew how to say “goat cheese” but not “ash.” So I faked it by using the English word with a French accent, which often works. But not this time. “C’est chevre avec ash,” I replied, which drew shocked looks from the little girls and bemused smiles from their parents. Uh, oh. I learned that “ash” means “hashish.” Oops!

6) Imagine you are sitting outside a French café at 10.00am on a sunny morning watching the world go by, what do you order from the waiter?

Keith: I love so many things about eating and drinking in France— the fruits and vegetables, the meats and cheeses, the breads and pastries, the glorious wine, and so much more! And then there’s the coffee, which is terrible. I like a good espresso, Italian style, and the French version is too weak and acidic. So I’ll order a café serré (serré means “tight” or “use less water” and it makes it a bit stronger). That’s for 10:00am.  If this were the afternoon I’d order a glass of wine or maybe a pastis, which is very popular in Provence.

7) Every region in France has its own culinary specialty, do you have a favourite regional dish? 

Keith: I love a good grand aïoli. You may know aioli—a kind of garlicky mayonnaise—and a grand aïoli is much more. Of course you start with aïoli, making sure to use plenty of garlic, then you surround it with mounds of different steamed vegetables, potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, and fish. It’s served on Friday as a Catholic tradition, when meat used to be forbidden and people ate fish instead. In Provence they still eat the fish but accompany it with what my friends call “the gifts of the land.”

8) France has many different cheeses, but which French cheese are you? A hard and mature Tome, a soft, fresh and lively goat cheese, the creamy and rich Camembert or maybe the salty and serious Roquefort?

Keith: I asked my wife what cheese she thought represented me and she said, “A well-aged one!” Um, thanks dear.

I’ll say Saint-Marcellin, my favorite cheese from the Dauphiné region just north of Provence. It’s rather plain on the outside but delicious and complex on the inside. And yes, it benefits from a bit of age. 

9) With plenty of space and lovely scenery France is a great place to explore. If you were to pack a picnic and take a day off where would you go?

Keith: My favorite picnic spot is the Cedar Forest above Bonnieux. To be above Bonnieux is quite a statement because it’s a high hilltop village that looks down on the Luberon Valley. But the Cedar Forest is higher still, and we picnic in a shady spot that looks out over the entire valley floor, a patchwork of small farms in different colors—bright green vineyards, darker green olive groves, brilliant yellow patches of rapeseed, and purple lavender fields. It’s marvellous.

10) Best French tipple, and yes, I know there are many to choose from? Also, do you prefer French or New World wine?

Keith: The French say that American wines “jump out of the glass,” with lots of fruit and oak, reflecting the exuberance of the country. I prefer my wines more restrained and balanced and so I’ll go with French wines. As for my favorite, a good Châteauneuf-du-Pape is usually out of my budget so it is a real treat when I have a bottle.

Thank you for taking the time to answer some questions about France and you. 

 

Are We French Yet by Keith Van Sickle

I will be reviewing Keith’s latest memoir Are We French Yet on the blog next Wednesday and you can read my review of his first book, One Sip At A Time, here.

You can read more from Keith on his website and find him on the following social media sites.

Facebook  

Twitter 

Book review of In Foreign Fields by Susie Kelly

In Foreign Fields by Susie Kelly

My review today is for In Foreign Fields: How Not To Move To France by Susie Kelly.

The New Year is often a time for changes and challenges, so it is reassuringly comforting to balance this with slipping into something familiar, something that you just know from the outset will be a good fit and a great read. Susie Kelly’s latest, In Foreign Fields, was my cozy comfort blanket and perfect antidote to beat the winter blues.

Written from the heart this is an honest account of the difficult times and situations she and husband Terry first encountered when they arrived in France over twenty years ago. However, it is perfectly balanced with plenty of humourous stories and love of France too. Susie, it seems, has a knack for attracting the sort of people most of us would shy away from, but at least this means we can be entertained when she recounts her many adventures. The comings and goings of her British neighbours, their menagerie of animals, the mad French woman she befriended at the vets, the students who arrived to work on her house – but seemed only to work their way through her hospitality; I could go on, but I don’t want to spoil it for you.

Susie has made some brave, but bonkers decisions, but I’m so glad she has, and has had the balls to share them with her readers. Keep writing Susie, please. This book is a must read for anyone who thinks moving to rural France will mean enjoying a relaxing and quiet life.

In Foreign Fields: How Not To Move To France is available in ebook and paperback formats and links to Amazon can be found below.

You might also like my reviews of Susie’s other great books:
La Vie En Rose

Safari Ants, Baggy Pants and Elephants

Best Foot Forward

Travels with Tinkerbelle

The Valley of Heaven and Hell

Swallows and Robins

The Lazy Cook

You can also read my France et Moi interview with Susie here.

French Village Diaries book reviews 

The Lost Girls of Paris by Pam Jenoff, excerpt

The Lost Girls of Paris by Pam Jenoff

As part of the TLC tour for The Lost Girls of Paris by Pam Jenoff, a book that takes the reader into the secret world of SOE sabotage missions in Occupied France, and that I will be reviewing on 6^thFebruary, I am delighted to be able to whet your appetite with this excerpt: 

“Sir,” the army officer at the far end of the table interjected. “I, too, find Miss Trigg a most unlikely choice. With her background…” Heads nodded around the table, their skeptical looks accompanied by a few murmurs. Eleanor could feel them studying her, wondering about her loyalties. Not one of us, the men’s expressions seemed to say, and not to be trusted. For all that she did for SOE, they still regarded her as an enemy. Alien, foreign. It was not for lack of trying. She had worked to fit in, to mute all traces of her accent. And she had applied for British citizenship. Her naturalization application had been denied once, on grounds that even the Director, for all of his power and clearances, had not been able to ascertain. She had resubmitted it a second time a few months earlier with a note of recommendation from him, hoping this might make the difference. Thus far, she had not received a response.

Eleanor cleared her throat, prepared to withdraw from consideration. But the Director spoke first. “Eleanor, set up your office,” he ordered. “Begin recruiting and training the girls with all due haste.” He raised his hand, foreclosing further discussion.

“Yes, sir.” She kept her head up, unwilling to look away from the eyes now trained upon her.

After the meeting, Eleanor waited until the others had left before approaching the Director. “Sir, I hardly think…”

“Nonsense, Trigg. We all know you are the man for the job, if you’ll pardon the expression. Even the military chaps, though they may not want to admit it or quite understand why.”

“But sir, even if that is true, I’m an outsider. I don’t have the clout.”

“You’re an outsider, and that is just one of the things that makes you perfect for the position.” He lowered his voice. “I’m tired of it all getting mired by politics. You won’t let personal loyalties or other concerns affect your judgment.” She nodded, knowing that was true. She had no husband or children, no outside distractions. The mission was the only thing that mattered—and always had been.

“Are you sure I can’t go?” she asked, already knowing the answer. Though flattered that he wanted her to run the women’s operation, it would still be a distant second-best to actually deploying as one of the agents in the field.

“Without the paperwork, you couldn’t possibly.” He was right, of course. In London, she might be able to hide her background. But to get papers to send her over, especially now, while her citizenship application was pending, was another matter entirely. “Anyway, this is much more important. You’re the head of a department now. We need you to recruit the girls. Train them. It has to be someone they trust.”

“Me?” Eleanor knew the other women who worked at SOE saw her as cold and distant, not the type they would invite to lunch or tea, much less confide in.

“Eleanor,” the Director continued, his voice low and stern, eyes piercing. “Few of us are finding ourselves where we expected at the start of the war.”

That, she reflected, was more true than he possibly could have known. She thought about what he was asking. A chance to take the helm, to try and fix all of the mistakes that she’d been forced to watch from the sidelines these many months, powerless to do anything. Though one step short of actual deployment, this would be an opportunity to do so much more.

“We need you to figure out where the girls belong and get them there,” the Director continued on, as though it had all been settled and she’d said yes. Inwardly, Eleanor felt conflicted. The prospect of taking this on was appealing. At the same time, she saw the enormity of the task splayed before her on the table like a deck of cards. The men already faced so much, and while in her heart she knew that the women were the answer, getting them ready would be Herculean. It was too much, the kind of involvement—and exposure—that she could hardly afford.

Then she looked up at the photos on the wall of fallen SOE agents, young men who had given everything for the war. She imagined the German security intelligence, the Sicherheitsdienst, at their French headquarters on the Avenue Foch in Paris. The SD was headed by the infamous Sturmbannführer Hans Krueger, a former concentration camp commandant who Eleanor knew from the files to be as cunning as he was cruel. There were reports of his using the children of locals to coerce confessions, of hanging prisoners alive from meat hooks to withdraw information before leaving them there to die. He was undoubtedly planning the downfall of more agents even as they spoke.

Eleanor knew then that she had no choice but to take on the task. “Fine. I’ll need complete control,” she added. It was always important to go first when setting the terms.

“You shall have it.”

“And I report only to you.” Special sectors would, in other circumstances, report through one of the Director’s deputies. Eleanor peered out of the corner of her eye at Michaels, who lingered in the hallway. He and the other men would not be happy about her having the Director’s ear, even more so than she already had. “To you,” she repeated for emphasis, letting her words sink in.

“No bureaucratic meddling,” the Director promised. “You report only to me.” She could hear then the desperation in his voice, how very much he needed her to make this work.

Pam Jenoff

Don’t forget to join me back here on 6^thFebruary to read my review and for more information on the TLC tour see here.

The Lost Girls of Paris will be available in ebook and paperback format and links to Amazon can be found below.

  

Nuit de la lecture (Reading Night) 2019

Nuit de la Lecture 2019

This evening libraries and book shops all over France will be holding events for the 3^rd annual book fest that is Nuit de la Lecture or Reading Night.

The idea is to bring together those who work with books and those who read them; not just librarians and bookshops, but also authors, publishers and academic associations. From this afternoon and all through the night, doors will be opened for readers to discover new books, ask questions, exchange ideas and have fun joining in activities.

 

Et Patati et Patata et Pause Café - Chit Chat Café

Sadly, there is nothing going on close enough to home to encourage me to leave the comfort of my favourite reading chair, but I don’t feel I’m missing out as this week I returned to the library where I worked last year, for their monthly book event and that fitted the Nuit de la Lecture theme perfectly. At “Et Patati et Patata et Pause Café”, or Chit Chat Café, a small group of us enjoy an afternoon of book talk, with the added bonus of tea, coffee and biscuits. Everyone is free to talk about any book they have enjoyed and once someone starts on a topic, conversation flows. Although we are mixed Franco/Anglais group, and books and poetry in English have been discussed alongside French ones, the language is all French. This means that it’s not only a fun social event that gives me ideas about what to read, it is also great for my brain to follow the discussions in French, that sometimes have quite complex themes.

If you are looking for some ideas of French themed books to read, here is a list of the most popular books I shared on the blog and on Facebook last year. Amazon kindly let me know how many books have been bought via my associate links – don’t panic, this doesn’t cost you any extra, but they do give me 4p for every £1 spent. I naturally use this money to buy myself more books set in France, that I can then share with you.

In no particular order, here are the French Village Diaries Top Ten most popular books from 2018.

Sea of Memories by Fiona Valpy. I consumed every page of this book, always hungry for more and when I finished it, I could have started again. It is so beautifully written you will cry. You can read my full review here.

A Year of Taking Chances by Jennifer Bohnet. A lovely read following a year with two best friends, both determined to change their lives for the better. Sometimes all we need is a little help in getting started and the faith to put our trust in others. You can read my full review here.

In Foreign Fields by Susie Kelly. You know you are going to get a good read from a Susie Kelly book and this one, released in December 2018, is no exception. It is honest, funny and a must read for anyone who thinks moving to rural France will mean enjoying a quiet life. My full review will be on the blog next week.

Death in Provence by Serena Kent. A great fun read that contained all the best bits of life in France, plenty of humour and a mystery to be solved too, all set against the landscape of Provence. You can read my full review here.

The French Adventure by Lucy Coleman. Easy to get into, difficult to put down, with a good mix of characters all adding something to the plot. A perfect summer read, I could have stayed with them long after the sunflowers had faded. You can read my full review here.

Drawing Lessons by Patricia Sands. A book that beautifully describes Provence; the colours and scents of the markets, the history, the wild Camargue and the food. I felt I was there too. You can read my full review here.

Poppy’s Place in the Sun by Lorraine Wilson. I loved this book. There are mysteries to be solved, from unexpected finds in the local chateau to strange behaviour from some of the villagers, but Poppy's dogs prove to be great listeners when she’s not sure who else to turn to. You can read my full review here.

The Beekeepers Promise by Fiona Valpy. Having enjoyed Sea of Memories by Fiona, I was delighted she released a second novel in 2018. Sadly, I haven’t had time to read it yet, but I will!

A Beer in the Loire by Tommy Barnes. This book caught my eye when it was released in September 2018, but it too is still sitting on my kindle patiently waiting its turn to be read.

The Hairy Bikers Mediterranean Adventure. Having enjoyed the TV series that saw Si and Dave biking and cooking around the Mediterranean, I snapped up the kindle version of the cookbook when it was on a price promo. I do still prefer a cookbook in traditional paper format, as flicking through is much easier, but opened on my ipad, I get lovely colourful images as well as some tasty Mediterranean recipes, many of them vegetable focussed, just like our new diet regime. I especially enjoyed their little introductions to each area they visited and recipe they cook.

I hope this has inspired you open a book tonight. Happy reading.

Brittany Ferries Pet Friendly Cabins Baie de Seine

Our pet friendly cabin

What do you do to celebrate your beloved dog’s birthday, especially when they have reached the age of 11 (or 65 in doggie years) and had a traumatic time over Christmas – think house sharing with a Jack Russel, dog bites, blood (on Grandma’s beige carpets) and a vet visit? We decided to take Mini on a cruise. Well, the pet friendly cabin of the overnight Brittany Ferries Baie de Seine sailing from Portsmouth to Le Havre, if I’m honest, but it felt like a cruise to me (and Mini). 

When you book Brittany Ferries économie, they go to great lengths to ensure you understand it is a no-frills service, which meant I was pleasantly surprised on boarding that the cabin was more spacious than I was expecting. We didn’t check out the bar or restaurant facilities, but as we boarded at 23h, we had already eaten and my bedtime was fast approaching, despite the excitement of being somewhere new. The cabin was warm, and the bed was comfy, although the unfamiliar sounds (it wasn’t noisy) and movement meant it took me a while to fall asleep, but I slept well once I was asleep.

 

Mini on her bed

Mini was more enthusiastic than some of her four-legged travelling companions; one had to be dragged through from the car deck to the stairwell, where we encountered another one refusing to climb the stairs. Mini was just happy to be with us, even if wearing her muzzle (compulsory in public areas) isn’t her favourite attire. She was also quite at home in the cabin. Her duvet bed fit snuggly under the desk area that gave each bunk a bedside table, meaning she was close to both of us, on her own bedding and tucked into a cosy cubbyhole; all very important touches for a sensitive pooch like Mini.

 

Doggy Goody Bag

She also loved the doggy goody bag that was waiting for her in the cabin. Chews, treats, a travel bowl and poo bags, I think at that point she had realised it must be her birthday. The only thing she wasn’t keen on was the outside walkies area. It was cold and dark, metal surfaced and full of puddles. I can’t really describe how miserable she looked tip-toeing gingerly around, never putting all four paws down and her only mission to pull me back to the door. We might have been looking forward to watching the lights of Portsmouth recede and dawn over Le Havre, but she had other ideas. 

Overall, her birthday cruise was a success for all of us and a very relaxing way to arrive back in France following three weeks in the UK. We really appreciated Brittany Ferries policy to board dog vehicles first, call us back to our cars last and then unload us first when we arrived in Le Havre. Would we book it again? Yes, we are even looking into joining their frequent traveller Club Voyage France scheme.

Good Citizen Dog Chart

FRANCE Magazine Sur le Web

Sur Le Web FRANCE Magazine January 2019

Blogging can sometimes be a lonely occupation. No matter how much I enjoy writing, there is always that nagging doubt in my mind: is there anyone reading what I write and do they like what they are reading? Facebook seems to share the links to my blog posts less and less, probably because I refuse to pay, and although the odd post I write gets read many thousands of times, not every post is so lucky.

Then there are the days like today, when one email can make all the difference to my mid-winter blues. The team over at FRANCE Magazine picked me as their January 2019 Sur le Web choice of websites that can help broaden your knowledge of France. Not only that, but they also wrote some really lovely things about my recipes, reviews and features. Thank you FRANCE Magazine for putting a smile on my face and a BIG hello to anyone new here.

Such is the power of media, I have already had a few enquiries from authors offering review copies of their books and requesting interview slots. Thanks especially to author Gayle Padgett for sending me a photo of the magazine feature. Her book Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie will be reviewed here soon.

FRANCE Magazine January Sale

To return the love, did you know FRANCE Magazine currently have a great deal on subscriptions? For only £1 per copy you can get a quality France fix delivered to your door every month. What’s not to love about that!

French school and public holidays 2019

Holidays in France 

Happy New Year. January is here once more and as in previous years, here is my annual reminder of the public holidays, school holidays and other notable dates (and how they are celebrated) in France for 2019. 

Whether you are new to life in France, or just wanting to plan your holiday here in the quiet weeks outside of the French school holidays, I hope you find this blog useful. Please feel free to share this post with your French loving friends and family. 

Public Holidays in France 2019

1^st January, New Years Day, jour de l’an

21^st April, Easter Sunday, Pâques look out for flying bells (see here).

22^nd April, Easter Monday, lundi de Pâques (note there is no Good Friday holiday in France unless you live in Alsace or Moselle areas)

1^st May, Fête du Travail

8^th May, Victory in Europe Day, Victoire 1945

30^th May, Ascension Day, Ascension (note in 2019 the schools will not have an extra day off on Friday 31^st May for the bridge pont) 

10^th June, Pentecost Monday, lundi de Pentecôte

14^th July, Fête Nationale (a Sunday this year)

15^th August, Assumption Day, Assomption

1^st November, All Saint's Day, Toussaint

11^th November, Armistice Day, Armistice 1918 

25^th December, Christmas Day, Jour de Noël (note there is no Boxing Day holiday in France on 26^th unless you live in Alsace or Moselle areas)

With the exception of the holidays linked to Easter: Easter Monday, Ascension Day and Pentecost Monday, the above dates are the same every year and the holiday is always observed on the actual date rather than being moved to the nearest Monday as the UK would do. Public holidays can therefore fall on weekends; to make up for this it is not uncommon for people to faire le pont (make a bridge) if a holiday falls on a Thursday (Ascension Day and Assumption Day) or a Tuesday, by taking off the Friday or Monday giving themselves a four-day weekend. This will be part of their annual holiday entitlement, or the hours need to be made up, so while most businesses will be open on bridge days, some staff shortages can be expected. It is worth noting that in many areas of rural France, although some opening hours is becoming more common, most shops are likely to be either closed or only open in the mornings on public holidays.

Other dates to note:

6^th January, Epiphany, celebrated in France with a Galette des Rois (see here)

9^th January, winter sales begin, soldes d’hiver, sales are regulated in France and the winter sales run from 9^th January to 19^th February

19^th January, Reading Night, Nuit de la lecture (see here)

2^nd February Candlemas day, Chandeleur, celebrated in France with pancakes (see here)

5^th March, Shrove Tuesday, Mardi Gras when carnival time begins in France and pancakes and beignets (similar to doughnuts) are eaten.

31^st March, clocks spring forward an hour to Central European Summertime

14^th April, Palm Sunday, Rameaux a day where our local boulangeries bake something different (see here)

24^th May, Neigbours’ Day, fêtes des voisins

26^th May, Mother’s Day, fêtes des mères

16^th June, Father’s Day, fêtes des pères

21^st June, fête de la musique, world music day, celebrated here with free concerts in towns and villages all over France

26^th June, summer sales begin, Soldes d’été, and will run until 6^thAugust

6^th to 28^th July, Le Tour de France

27^th October, clocks go back an hour to Central European Time

French School Holiday Zones

School Holidays

In France the schools are split into three zones and most of the holidays are staggered so not everyone is trying to hit the ski slopes or beaches at the same time, although be prepared for extra traffic on the roads on all Saturdays during the school holidays, or better still avoid driving on these days.

Here are the dates for 2019:

The winter holiday is from 9^th February to 10^th March. 

Zone B gets the first two weeks, Zone A the middle two and Zone C the last two.

The spring holiday is from 6^th April to 5^th May. 

Zone B gets the first two weeks, Zone A the middle two and Zone C the last two weeks.

The summer holiday for all zones is from 6^th July until 1^st September.

The October holiday for all zones is from 19^th October to 3^rd November.

The Christmas holiday for all zones is from 21^st December to 5^th January 2020.

Wherever you visit in France this year, I hope you have a great holiday. If you are planning of driving, you might like to read my popular post that highlights the do’s and don’ts of driving in France (see here).