Photoshoot, take one, take two

Enjoying the Marais Poitevin photo credit ©S.Bonnet

As I hinted in my last post, the week of our twentieth anniversary of arriving in France, was a busy week, even by our standards, but one full of fun and laughter too.

 

When I think ‘model’, images of long-legged beauties, immaculately made up, not a hair out of place and coordinated couture, come to mind. I certainly don’t think model when I catch a glimpse of myself in my sweaty cycling gear and helmet hair. It’s as much as surprise to me as anyone, that not once, but twice this summer I have been filmed and photographed cycling on the local bike routes.

 

Take one

My first experience of pretend modelling was back in June. This mission was to produce promotional material for the Vélidéale, the new cycle route that starts on the Atlantic coast in Saint-Nazaire, before crossing the departments of the Vendée, the Deux-Sèvres, the Charente, the Haute-Vienne and finishing up in the Creuse, at Lac Vassivière in central France. 

La Vélidéale

This journey also takes it through five regional parks, as well as passing right outside the Château de Javarzay. When the Deux-Sèvres department put out a call on social media looking for volunteers to be photographed along the section that passes from Niort to the Château de Javarzay, I knew I wanted to be a part of it. I might not be that comfortable being photographed but will do all I can to help promote this area, and especially to fellow cyclo-tourists. One of the most important things I’ve learned in the last twenty years is that saying yes to things that initially seem outside of my comfort zone, often leads to fabulous experiences.

Photoshoot, take one, Niort

 

At half past eight one June morning, in the carpark of the Château, our long day of filming began with introductions, instructions on how to ride the e-bikes we had been provided with for the day, and a bag of pastries from the local boulangerie to tuck into. The Vélidéale had employed a photographer to visit all the departments and take a mix of stills, video and drone footage to highlight the sights the cycle tourists will see over the six hundred and sixty-five kilometres. Our day consisted of lots of short rides up to or past châteaux, churches, an abbey and a silver mine, where we’d stop, look up or around us, laugh, smile, and then repeat, until the photographer was happy. This was interspersed with driving between locations and lots of waiting around for the clouds to clear and the sun to shine (June wasn’t the best month for good weather this year). I probably pedalled less than two kilometres over the eleven hours we were out, but it was still as exhausting as it was fun, as well as being a fascinating behind the scenes glimpse into how tourist brochures are put together.

 

 

Take two

At the beginning of August, I received a phone call from the lady who works for the promotion of tourist sites in the Deux-Sèvres department, and who had accompanied us on our June day out. They were looking for a couple to cycle the twenty kilometres between Niort and Coulon on the Vélo Francette, for a social media campaign, and would we be interested. This well-established long-distance route from the ferry point in Ouistreham in Normandy to La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast, just happens to be one of our favourites, especially this section that passes through the Marais Poitevin, so how could I refuse. 

 

The bronze dragons of Niort

It was a totally different day out to the first one, but even more fun. We met up in the centre of Niort and our first task was to cycle through Place de la Brèche, somewhere that has changed dramatically in the last twenty years, before passing the famous bronze dragons and taking a pause at the market halles. Recently voted the best market in France, I am ashamed to admit that this was our first visit, my lame excuse being it is only open in the mornings and is over an hour from home. While our bikes were guarded, we were filmed wandering from stall to stall, admiring the fresh produce before stopping underneath the nine-hundred-year-old Donjon, once home to Alienor of Aquitaine, Queen of France and then of England in the 1100’s.

 

The real cycling began as we left Niort and followed the meandering Sèvre Niortais river towards the Atlantic. This is where things got a bit tricky. We are both in our fifties and were on our Bromptons (small wheeled, folding bikes, powered by legs). Our ‘film crew’ were on e-bikes and the girl whose project it was, was younger than Ed, but as we set off with her filming from behind, it soon became apparent, she couldn’t keep up with us. I am taking this as a middle-aged win!

 

Once we’d got into a comfortable rhythm for everyone, we made good progress, stopping at various points for extra shots/close ups and action clips. One of these was on the chain ferry that is a self-operated, floating bridge to get up to five people (or two and two bikes) from one bank to the other and was yet another first for us and great fun. 

Getting the best shot

 

As we relaxed into having the cameras follow us, we laughed, pulled silly faces when asked to hold hands for a touch of romance, and enjoyed the looks we got from passers-by no doubt wondering who this odd couple were being filmed crossing the pretty bridge in Magné, dangling their feet over the jetty in Coulon and sitting at the terrace of the Hôtel au Marais. 

 

To give the impression of it being a mini-break to Coulon by bike, we also enjoyed a delicious two-course meal at L’Atelier Gourmand and a special visit to the Maison du Marais Poitevin museum in Coulon, another first for us and somewhere that has been on my wish list for a while. What a treat it was learning all about the history of the marshland that goes back hundreds of years, and the people who lived and worked here. I certainly recommend a visit, especially as there is an English headset available to accompany the film that explains the various projects that have reclaimed the land from the sea.

 

Before we returned to Niort, there was just enough time for a few photos back at the Hotel au Marais, including a sneaky kiss on the balcony of the best room. We have promised ourselves that we will return for a real night away, and hopefully we can book ‘our’ room with the balcony.

 

Hotel au Marais, Coulon photo credit ©S.Bonnet

As if this wasn’t enough, we were not only welcomed by Parc Naturel Régional du Marais Poitevin (who kept our bikes safe as we wandered) but they also gave us a book of watercolour images from the Baie de l’Aiguillon, the muddy estuary where the Sèvre Niortais joins the Atlantic. We might not have gone that far today, but in 2022 when we followed the river from its source in Sepvret, near Melle, to Niort and through the Marais Poitevin, we dipped our wheels in the shallows of the bay as we neared the end of the second day of our cycle tour. Luckily for me, Adrian was happy to squeeze a large hardback book into the bike bag on the front of his Brompton for the final twenty kilometres, isn’t he a star. 

 

At the end of the day, Niort photo credit ©S.Bonnet

I can’t think of a better way to have spent the eve of our anniversary of moving into our house in France. We were treated like celebrities, the sun shone, and memories were made with smiles on our faces. It turned out to be a win-win situation for everyone as alongside a fabulous day out on the bikes, our participation helped their work placement student with her final project - putting together a promotional film of a couple on a cycling holiday in the Marais Poitevin. 

The Sèvre Niortais photo credit ©S.Bonnet

The finished film won’t be available for a while, but I have been given permission to use some of the photos that were taken, and I love them. Merci mille fois S et J. 

Cycle touring - the Sèvre Niortaise and Charente Tour

La Rochelle

The Sèvre Niortaise and Charente Tour

 

Who says holidays need to be far away and in exotic locations? Not me! We have just spent a fantastic week cycle touring, taking in rural river valleys, the second largest wetlands area in France, the Atlantic coast, salt marshes, vineyards, historic buildings, and monuments – including the last working transbordeur bridge in France, and we were never more than 80kms from home.

 

This post is the nuts and bolts of the tour for all our cycling friends who have expressed an interest in the routes, cycle paths and infrastructure as well as cycle-friendly places to stay. It includes links to the GPS routes, the accommodation we used and just some of our photos. Happy cycling!

 

Fully loaded Bromptons at the source of the Sèvre Niortaise river

Day 1 – Sepvret to Niort 72kms

 

Ride With GPS route

 

Starting at the source of the Sèvre Niortaise river and following this as close as possible to Niort.  We pick up the newly created V94 in Exoudun.  

 

There is a bar in the square at Le Mothe-st-Héray (KM18) (the short detour to the Orangery as you arrive in town is recommended) and plenty of bars and restaurants in the military town of St-Maixent-l’Ecole (KM30).  Following the river closely, this route can get quite steep in places as you climb out of the valley, but the climbs are short and manageable.

 

Really good patisserie stop just before KM43 in La Creche.

 

The track sections from KM44 to KM50 are pretty good.

 

Pick up the Velo Francette at KM59 by the Château Coudray-Salbart dating from the Middle Ages, and follow this into Niort, avoiding the dogleg just after KM62.

 

Highly recommend the restaurant Douc’Heure De Maroc off Place Brèche run by a local Moroccan family.  Great value tajine.

The dragon snakes of Niort

 

Don’t miss the famous bronze dragon snakes that rise from the pedestrian streets in Niort and the Franck Ayroles ladies on the bench in Les Jardins de la Brèche are worth a photo stop.

 

AirBnB accommodation very close to the covered market and Donjon. 

  

NOTE: All accommodation on this trip is ground floor and easily accessible for 2 people and their Bromptons.

On the Vélo Francette in the Marais Poitevin

 

Day 2 - Niort to La Rochelle 100kms

 

Ride With GPS route

 

Leave Niort on the Velo Francette following the river all the way to Coulon at the entrance to the Marais Poitevin (KM17). The Marais Poitevin is the second largest wetlands site in France (after the Camargue) and a haven for wildlife. There are good bars and restaurants in Coulon – it can get busy in tourist season.  Perhaps stop and take a barque (punt boat) onto the marais but we prefer to do this from the less busy town of Arçais further on.  Leave the Francette and follow the easy and very pretty road to Irleau (KM23).  

 

Staying off the Francette follow the road and trail to Arçais at KM28.  The Francette avoids this town and it is such a shame as it is lovely.  Take a picnic on a barque from the embarquerie du martin pecheur.  A 1 hour rental at lunch time grants to an additional 45 minutes free to stop at their remote picnic island in the middle of the marais forest.

 

Continue to Damvix (KM32) more bars here.  Divert off the Francette again to Bazois (KM35). Then follow the Francette to Marans at KM 58.  This is a long section.

 

After Marans, we could smell the salty sea air as we continued to the coast where the Sèvre meets the Atlantic.  However, if you need to press on to La Rochelle then follow the Francette alongside the Napoleonic canal all the way into the centre of La Rochelle.  Pop into Dompierre-sur-Mer if you need a bar stop.

The fabulous cycle routes approaching La Rochelle

 

We came inland from the coast as the coastal path is a bit tricky on tyres.  KM72 to 89 is a mix of easy road and great dedicated cycle tracks that are well used by the locals.

 

KM 89 to 91 joins a slightly busier road to skirt the runway at the airport, but it is perfectly safe.  Then join the wonderful cycle network through La Rochelle at KM92.  Using this route means you arrive into La Rochelle from the ocean side rather than from the land side.  There is one large industrial estate to bypass and look out for the large WW2 submarine pens in the port.  Then savour La Rochelle which has become a cycling wonderland and has to be one of the best cities in France. A visit to Café de la Paix is a must.

 

Apartment in ancient town house.

 

A nice idea here, if you have the time, would be to spend an extra night and cycle over the bridge to Ile de Ré. The highlights of the island can easily be covered in a day. The toll bridge is free to cyclists who have a dedicated path safely separated from the road. In high season the cycle paths on the island can get very busy.

The Atlantic coast Vélodyssée

 

Day 3 – La Rochelle to Rochefort 65kms

 

Ride With GPS route

 

Leave La Rochelle following the coast on the well signposted EV1 Vélodyssée.

 

Sample the divert around Angoulins to follow the coast around this little headland at KM9.

 

Chatelaillon Plage (KM17) is a classic French seaside resort and has plenty of bars and restaurants.

 

It is really worth diverting to Fouras at KM29.  The route into town follows the old deserted railway line and passes some of the traditional carelet fishing huts built on stilts in the water.  The town itself is lovely and sports a splendid Vauban fort guarding the entrance to the Charente river.

 

Fort Vauban, Fouras, Flow Vélo

Leave Fouras and stick to the coastal path from KM38 to 42.  This is worth the detour although it can be narrow in places.  It was a highlight section of our trip.

 

Follow the EV 1 into Rochefort and around the edge of the Rochefort peninsula.  The cycle way here is very good.  Pass under the huge road bridge and arrive at the pont transbordeur at KM61.  It is the last bridge of its type in France and has been recently renovated.

Pont Transbordeur, Rochefort

 

NOTE - If you are en route to Bordeaux via the EV1 we would recommend crossing the river here, on the pont, rather than following the official route to the east of Tonnay sur Charente.  Crossing the bridge is an experience not to be missed.  Then rejoin the EV1 just east of Echillais and follow it on the old railway line although a diversion to the fortified town of Brouage in the middle of the marais is a must and it is such a shame that it is bypassed by the EV1.

 

Today’s route ends in the royal dockyards at Rochefort.  Rochefort is a great town for travelling around in.  There is not much dedicated cycling infrastructure, but all roads are laid out on a grid iron pattern and every road gives way at every junction.  Plenty of one-way streets but almost all of them allow cycles to travel in both directions.  The courtesy and patience of the drivers in this town is lovely.

 

AirBnB apartment in a lovely old town house.

River Charente, Rochefort, Flow Vélo

 

Day 4 – Rochefort to Cognac 90kms

 

Ride With GPS route

 

This was a big day and was over six hours in the saddle despite taking some shortcuts.

 

The route follows the relatively new FlowVelo V92.  The trail sections are not all well surfaced until the outskirts of Cognac where they greatly improve. Public toilets and benches were a bit thin on the ground too.

 

The initial run out of Rochefort and through Tonnay sur Charente (KM7) follows really well-planned cycle paths alongside the main road. The old suspension bridge is worth a look although you will need good climbing legs to get up to crossing level.  It is open only to pedestrians and cyclists.  You would understand why if you crossed it…

 

From here the trail sections are variable with some very narrow or very rutted.  There are bypass routes following local roads which you could divert on to at many points. Don’t forget to look out for storks who arrive here for a summer of breeding.

Saintes

 

Saintes at KM53 is a busy town but with all facilities.  Plenty of evidence of the Roman occupation here too.

 

At KM71 we finally had had enough of the variable quality trails and hit the road all the way to KM82 at Pres Menu where the trail surfaces get noticeably better.  This point marks the crossing from the Charente Maritime department into the Charente.  From now, all the way to Angouleme and beyond to Nontron, the trail sections on the Flow Vélo are superb.

 

The final run into Cognac follows the old railway line and ends up at the main quay where you will find the impressive Hennessy cognac house. Many Cognac houses in the city offer guided tours.

 

Beware the roads in town are busy and the drivers are not too courteous.  It was quite a shock after La Rochelle and Rochefort.

 

Large open plan loft accommodation behind the park.

Cognac, Flow Vélo

 

Day 5 – Cognac to Angoûleme 62kms

 

Ride With GPS route

  

The FlowVélo splits between these 2 cities.  We followed the northern route partly because it passes through the lovely town of Jarnac in time for a croissant and coffee.

 

A mixture of road and trail but all well signposted for the V92.  The trail after Jarnac from KM18 to KM36 via Chateauneuf is superb.  We had planned a divert onto the road to save some time but the trail was so good that we stayed on it.

 

Wall art in Angoûleme

You can divert to the southern loop following the river at KM41 but we decided to follow the river and it is a nice section.  KM49 to 54 is a little busier with traffic but nothing serious before picking up the river trail at KM54 all the way into the city of Angouleme.  Angouleme is built on an outcrop of rock.  Plan your access.  The marked route is about the easiest we know at about 7% incline.  This can increase to stupid % on some of the other routes into the city.

Le Bruleau Charentais, Angoûleme

 

If you like steak then there is only one place to head for your Entrecote aux Echalottes cooked over an open fire in the Bordealise fashion:  Le Bruleau Charentais on Rue de Beaulieu.  Fabulous and very reasonably priced restaurant.

 

AirBnB apartment in the centre of the city.

 

Great (cheap) coffee in the covered market at the Italian deli – don’t forget to buy your croissant from the boulangerie in the market halle first.

 

Getting here

There are TGV services from Paris Montparnasse or Lille to Poitiers, St-Maixent-l”Ecole, Niort, La Rochelle and Angouleme.  Ordinary train services to other major towns on the route.

 

Regular flights from various UK airports to La Rochelle or Poitiers.

Tour de Rêves Day Four

Tour de Rêves route day four Parthenay to Thouars

We slept well, woke up to sunshine and even had other cyclists to chat to over breakfast at the chamber d’hôtes. Unfortunately they had arrived in Parthenay from the north, via the Vélo Francette (the direction we were headed in) and all they could talk about were the relentless hills. I didn’t need to hear that. 

The view from our chambre d'hôtes in Parthenay

I had woken elated that I’d slept well and as my legs had already carried me half way around the Deux-Sèvres I thought I was ready for anything. It soon became apparent I wasn’t. Before we’d even left Parthenay I’d given in and walked up one steep hill and walked down another. I was tired and we still had a long way to go.

A pretty river scene at Gourgé

We left Parthenay by the river, stopping to admire the goats grazing on the almost vertical ramparts and thanks to the extra four cyclists tagging along with us the mood was light and the conversation fun. It was a day of pretty rivers, water mills and even prettier stone bridges. There was so much to see, I’m sure this was what slowed me down (honest).

One rather tired face ready to scoff her lunch in Airvault

Lunch was a delicious and filling plat du jour in Airvault and the perfect fuel to keep me battling the hills of the north all the way to Luzay and the Trompe Souris Café. The steep and narrow road to the café was probably one of the scariest gradients imaginable, so I walked, but the café was certainly worth a visit.

Refreshments offered by Trompe Souris Café

Nestled among rock pools on the River Thouet, the views were amazing, there were comfy loungers and they had kindly offered us refreshments of beer and cakes. I felt so much better after our stop here it was truly magical.

Arriving in Thouars

There were more hills, more stunning views and more ancient stone bridges all the way into Thouars where author Alison Morton and her husband Steve were waiting for us, with food, comfy beds and chilled bottles of bubbly. These kind people had opened their home to us sweaty cyclists on their wedding anniversary no less. Thanks guys, your hospitality and fun conversation were much appreciated.

It was a tough 72km today, but the support we were receiving really helped and with four days completed we were two thirds of the way there and had cycled from the south to the north of the Deux-Sèvres.

The Tour de Rêves - a charity bike ride around the Deux-Sèvres department in France, undertaken by four mad friends, supported by many others, all with the aim of raising money for Rêves, a charity making dreams come true for seriously ill children.

To make a donation to Rêves in our name, please click here.

To read the other posts about our six day adventure click the links below.

Day One

Day Two

Day Three

Tour de Rêves Day Three

Tour de Rêves Day Three route, following the Vélo Francette from Coulon to Parthenay

Sèvres Niortais River

If you have never been to the Marais Poitevin, I urge you to plan a visit. It is a beautiful wetland area of tree lined canals and waterways that is peaceful, calm and full of wildlife. I love a day trip there, so setting off for Day Three, following the Vélo Francette cycle route along the banks of the Sèvre Niortais River, with a glimmer of sun and accompanied by a group of cyclists was picture perfect.

Ready to leave Coulon

Following an article in the local paper the week before we set off, it wasn’t just our slightly mad friends who joined us for stages of our tour; we had experienced French cyclists too. Boosting our numbers from Coulon were five extras including two French friends on their tandem, who stayed with us for most of the day before turning around and cycling it all again in reverse. Gulp, there were a lot of hilly kilometres for us today, so a lot more for them and amazingly Edouard was the eyes for his blind friend Patrick and kept up a running commentary of the scenery as we cycled along. They were a true inspiration and having them along really boosted us.

In Niort

There was certainly a lot of laughter all the way to morning coffee in Niort, when the terrain was flat and the river a calming influence. Almost immediately we left Niort the hills started which for me slightly curbed the excitement of cycling in new territory. It was a hard work afternoon, pushing to the top of a hill, freewheeling down and pushing back up, again and again and again.

We made it to Parthenay

Thankfully the scenery was beautiful, it wasn’t raining and we were not alone. By the time those who joined us in the morning set off back home, four new brave souls were there by our sides to cycle with us up and down the hills into Parthenay, where a welcoming committee were waiting at a bar with beer.

It was pure bliss to crash out for a pre-dinner snooze on the comfy bed at the chamber d’hôtes in the old medieval city, and it was even warm enough to wash and dry the cycling kit, something we hadn’t been successful with at the campsite the previous night. Dinner was a delicious meal at one of Sarah and Rob’s favourite restaurants where we celebrated completing another 70km and being halfway around the Deux-Sèvres. We even gave our legs a good post-cycling stretch wandering around the floodlight ramparts before falling into our beds. We all agreed that although it was hard work, we were having a great time and it was all for a good cause too.

If you would like to make a donation to Rêves in our name, please click here.