Whooping cough, headdresses and heartthrobs

Coiffes or headdresses, Château de Javarzay

Whooping cough, headdresses and heartthrobs – read on to discover the link between these words, and my work at the Château de Javarzay.

 

I love learning new things or discovering new words and often find myself falling down Google research rabbit holes. What really puts a smile on my face is when I discover an unexpected link between things that interest me. You might remember my blog post about the lousy summer weather we have endured this year, where I attributed the link between the 1815 volcanic eruption in Indonesia and the subsequent career path taken by twelve-year-old Jean-François Cail, born (in 1804) in rural Chef-Boutonne, who went on to become one of France’s major industrialists. Well, it’s happened again. 

With Julia Chapman, Librairie des Halles, Niort

We recently had the opportunity to meet one of my favourite authors, Julia Chapman (or Stagg, depending on which series of her books you are reading) at a book signing in Niort. Julia and I have been online friends since 2011, when her Fogas Chronicles series was just making its way into the world. I reviewed her books, interviewed her for the blog and eagerly awaited each new book in the five-book series set in the French Pyrenees. Her writing perfectly captured the nuances of life in a rural French village, from the characters to the politics, as she brought the mountain community to life with a great eye for detail and lots of humorous moments. I was, and still am a huge fan and even had the pleasure of lunching with her, in York, in the spring of 2014. 

 

While the Fogas Chronicles took a while to find a home in the French book shops, her second series, The Dales Detectives, set in a market town in the Yorkshire dales, is a huge hit here in France. So much so, the new books have been released in French, around six months before they are released in English and the first two books have been televised – I think they love the Britishness of it. With the tenth (and final – sniff, sniff) book released this month in France, Julia and her husband Mark, set off on a publicity tour of French bookshops, that unbelievably included one in Niort, about an hour away from us. 

Julia Chapman, Librairie des Halles, Niort

In the twenty years we have lived here, we have only visited Niort in the evening a handful of times, but the chance to enjoy an evening listening to Julia was too good an opportunity to miss. We had a great time and came away with a copy of book ten, in French. My level of French is now good enough that I do read in French, slowly, but it tends to be non-fiction and on a subject that I know well. Having now read the first four chapters of Date With Destiny, or Rendez-vous Avec le Destin, I am delighted with two things. The first is how much I am able to understand and the second, how well the humour and Yorkshireness of the English versions comes across in the translation. I have had to look up a few new words, however, but this is a good thing as it increases my French vocabulary.

 

One of the words I had to look up was “coqueluche”. When simply translated it means whooping cough, but this made no sense or had any relevance to the paragraph I was reading. I dug a bit deeper to find that in French you can “avoir la coqueluche”, to have whooping cough, or you can “être la coqueluche”, to be a whooping cough – meaning to be a heartthrob or media darling. This made more sense, as the passage was describing a particularly colourful character who was a reality TV star.

Coiffes or headdresses, Château de Javarzay

However, my inquisitive mind needed to know why the word for heartthrob and whooping cough are the same in French. This is how I found myself on the Académie Française website, reading all about coiffes or headdresses, something I thought I knew pretty well thanks to the last three years working at the Château de Javarzay. Part of our museum includes the bonnets and coiffes worn by Poitou women in the late nineteenth century, as well as the social culture around why they wore them. 

Coiffe from La Rochelle (shell-shaped)

Before it was attributed to the disease, a coqueluche was the name of a headdress, the word being a mix of the words for shell (coquille) and hood (capuche). Head coverings, that kept the chill from your head, were considered an essential protection against illnesses, including whooping cough, hence the shared name. Whooping cough (the illness) is extremely contagious, spreading quickly from person to person, much like the adoration in the public eyes of the latest media darling or heartthrob. So, there you have the link between whooping cough, headdresses, heartthrobs and the Château de Javarzay – don’t you just love the nuances of the French language, I know I do.

Amazon link to The Dales Detective Series 

Amazon link to The Fogas Chronicles 

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Rendez-vous with the Festival Polar de Cognac

Cognac Crime Festival

Festival Polar de Cognac

 

Last Thursday evening we went out. We finished work, we dressed up, well I discarded my cosy leggings on the bed and found jeans, a blouse and some jewellery, and we got in the car to drive to Cognac, an hour away. This was already way more excitement than we are used to for a week night.

 

Cognac was holding its 28^th crime festival, Le Festival Polar de Cognac. This brings together novels, comic books, films and television series for a four-day festival of screenings, book sales and meet the author/stars events, that culminates with a prize-giving ceremony on the Sunday.

Rare night out excitement at the Festival Polar de Cognac

 

Our date was with Rendez-Vous avec le Crime 2, “Le mouton noir”, the third of three films selected for the television series prize. This is the French TV adaptation of Date With Malice, book two in Julia Chapman’s Dales Detective series of novels. I’ve been friends with Julia, thanks to this blog, for many years, even lunching with her in York back in 2014. Adrian and I have read all her books in English and watched the first of the TV films last Christmas, on France 3, with English subtitles. We couldn’t miss out on the opportunity to watch this one, on a big screen, so close to home. 

 

We opted for the free tickets but could have bought a Priority Pass that would have given us queue-free VIP access to all events. As we would only be there for one screening, a short queue up the back staircase, that was decorated with delicate stained-glass windows, wasn’t an issue. The theatre had filled up nicely by the time we got in, but we easily found two seats a few rows back from the front, which we sunk into nicely. They were the cosiest, softest cinema seats I’d ever sat in, like a bright red velvety hug, that was great until a hot flush snuck up on me during the film. Looking around, we think we were some of the youngest in the audience and from the chatter we’d overheard on the staircase, probably the only non-locals and likely the only British too. Even before we’d sat down, I’d fallen in love with the venue when I read the fabulous sign warning that no eating is allowed during the film, including sweets or my absolute pet hate, chewing gum.

Some of the cast and crew of Rendez-Vous Avec Le Crime 2

 

The evening began with an introduction and a few words from some of the production team as well as two of the actors, where we learned it was an avant premiere, so the first ever showing and not even the cast had yet seen the finished film, what a privilege for us, even without the priority pass, I felt like a VIP. The lights dimmed, the film started, and the low hubbub that built around us seemed to agree with our confused looks – they were showing the wrong film. It was easy to imagine the furtive fumbling going on in the projection room as we were left staring at a blank screen, before the man with the mic appeared back on stage to apologise. For the first time in 28 years, two films with identical running times were on the schedule, and one of them had been downloaded twice! He promised it would only be a short wait while they ‘found’ the correct film, which it was, and soon we were whisked off to the wilds of Brittany.

 

There was enough of a gasp of shock from the audience when the killer was revealed, to lead me to think that not many of them had read the books, but the enthusiastic clapping at the end was proof they had enjoyed it. With a French cast and location, it has an obvious French feel to it, but while it may lack a bit of Yorkshire heritage, it hasn’t lost any of the wit, humour or chemistry of the original books we both love. 

 

On Sunday night, it was lovely to read that the Grand Prix for the television series category had gone to Rendez-Vous Avec Le Crime 2, a well-deserved win and we will enjoy watching it again when it comes to France 3. I know that there is also a UK based production company who are looking into making a version for British TV, set in Yorkshire, which is fabulous news.

 

I am 100% sure that even though Adrian is known to indulge my many whims that take us to some weird and wonderful places, he wouldn’t have been up for a two-hour round trip, on a dark and biblically wet night after work just to watch a French film, unless it was based on a Julia Chapman book. 

 

Ed is now working for a film festival in Poitiers, so it is rather remiss of us that this was our first taste of a festival, but it won’t be our last.

 

La Fête Nationale, 14 juillet

14th July fireworks, Parc de Blossac, Poitiers 2019

Last year our 14^th July celebrations for the Fête Nationale seemed to go on for days, a stark contrast to this Covid-constricted year where nothing is as normal. 

Ed in Melle

Ed had been playing the guitar at a live gig in Melle on 12^th July, the street outside the kebab shop closed to traffic, a ‘stage’ at one end and tables and chairs filling the space at the other, where homemade burgers and chips were served all night to an appreciative crowd.

 

Our village celebrates fête nationale, 2019

Our village has always held its buffet and disco on the evening of 13^th, allowing plenty of opportunity for everyone to head off to neighbouring towns or villages to continue celebrating on the 14^th. Having eaten well, laughed with friends and then danced the night away, I was particularly looking forward to the 14^th.

 

Filling the bin with the patriotic paper tablecloths

First was a bit of clearing up, followed by an apéro with other community-spirited friends, timed to perfection just as the village bell struck midday. Then it was off to the bar over the road to help them celebrate their second anniversary of opening, with more food and music. Although it promised to be a good afternoon, I had to leave early to collect Adrian from Poitiers airport. He’d missed out so far, but with Ed’s flat empty, this gave us the perfect opportunity to enjoy a bit of big town celebrations for the first time. 

 

Parc de Blossac, Poitiers

As dusk began to fall, we headed to Poitiers Parc de Blossac where there was a free live music concert, followed by fireworks. Security was tight, with all bags being searched at the gates and a no alcohol policy strictly implemented. The refreshment tent sold only 0% beer or soft drinks, but it meant there was a friendly and family-focussed atmosphere in the crowd. We found ourselves a space and sat happily people-watching as we waited for the fireworks to begin, and boy were there plenty of people to watch. It didn’t take long before every bit of grass was occupied, and those trying to pick a route through the bodies had to watch for fingers, feet and children, as they found somewhere to squeeze into. For someone used to village life and events of around eighty people, suddenly being one of thousands was rather daunting. The fireworks were fantastic, set off in time to music played so loud the ground vibrated as well as the air from the explosions and light show overhead. It was an amazing experience, but we both agreed, not one we would be in a hurry to repeat as it was a bit of a sensory overload.

 

Breakfast in Poitiers

The morning of the 15^th saw us at an outdoor café in Poitiers town centre enjoying a coffee and croissant, before we headed off for a bike ride and then enjoyed lunch at the most beautifully decorated Moroccan restaurant situated on the cobbled street of Grand’Rue. The interior is a riot of colours, mosaics and lights, a feast for the eyes as much as their tagine plat du jour is for the stomach.

 

#KTTinyTourer carries flowers for picnic

We were back home to enjoy an afternoon bike ride on the 16^th, for Adrian to catch up with the sunflower fields, followed by an evening of free live music in the local village of Pouissay. We met up with friends, folded our bikes, unfolded our tables, opened our picnic hampers and wine bottles and had a fab time. I’d even managed to carry a vase of flowers on the bike to decorate the table, and at the end of the evening we cycled home as the full moon was rising. These five days proved that whether in a big town like Poitiers, or just a small rural village, France certainly knows how to put on a show. It was community events like these, and the joie de vivre they give, that I feared we would miss out on in this extraordinary year.

 

14th July bike ride

This year Ed is with Pearl and her family, experiencing his first French family fête nationale celebrations and having a great time. With no village ‘do’ on the 13^th in our calendar, we almost forgot about celebrating the 14^th completely. We took the bikes out for a 43km ride in the afternoon, a warm and sunny ride that took us through fields of sunflowers, shady tunnels through woods, past an old cart reclining under a tree and stopping for a rest in a waist-high meadow, where I celebrated 2000km cycled so far this year. The evening ended perfectly with friends coming over for apéros in the garden, where the conversation and camaraderie certainly made up for partying we had missed out on. 

 

Back at the village bar for music night

Last night we ventured back to the village bar for our first music night post lockdown. The weather meant we could all safely distance in the garden and all the usual friendly faces were there, just the hugs and kisses that were missing. The music was lifting, we laughed, chatted and sang along, and it felt good, a small return to normal.

 

With many holiday makers from France and elsewhere hitting the west coast for their holidays, virus numbers are on the increase, even for us a little way inland. We still need to be cautious and although masks won’t be obligatory until 1^st August, we don’t leave home without ours.

Charroux Literary Festival 2017 Earlybird booking

Isabel Ashdown at Charroux Lit Fest 2015

Those of you who are regular readers may remember my post in August 2015 when I regaled my two days of literary heaven at the very first Charroux Literary Festival, a local event that created quite an atmosphere in our corner of rural France (read more here).

Exciting news! This August, 24^th to 26^th, the Charroux Lit Fest is back and if you book your tickets before Friday 21^st July you will qualify for an Earlybird discount of 20%. I’ve booked mine and if you are local, or fancy a literary-themed short break in France then click here for more information on who is appearing and how to book.

 

Charroux Lit Fest 24-26 August 2017

My three day Earlybird ticket has only cost 28€ and I’ve put my name down for 14 sessions over the three days which works out at a bargain 2€ per session! Yes, just 2€ to meet, listen to and learn from authors whose books I’ve read as well as discovering authors who are new to me. Some of the events are talks by authors about their books, inspirations, genres or journeys to publication, but I’ve also bravely signed up for a few writing workshops too, which makes me equally nervous and excited. Last time I found it was a sensory overload, but I loved every minute of it.

Diana Morgan-Hill at Charroux Lit Fest 2015

Patron of the Lit Fest is local author Susie Kelly, one of my favourite memoir authors, whose books always make me laugh. Susie has released two memoirs so far this year, Safari Ants and Baggy Pants and La Vie en Rose, and I can't wait to see her again at the festival. This is what she had to say when I asked her about it:

"Charroux is dominated by the remains of the great 8th century tower, a reminder that the medieval town was once one of the most important centres of Christian worship in France, a place of pomp and splendour. Today it is a small, friendly town in the sunny Nouvelle Aquitaine region, with a quaint cobbled market hall, mouthwatering boulangerie and a number of welcoming hostelries. Could there be a prettier and more inviting setting for the second Charroux Literary Festival? 

While I already know many of our local writers who will be attending I’m really looking forward to meeting the other authors and poets, both French and English, who are coming from further afield. There are some very big names on the programme, and the beauty of setting the festival in a small town like Charroux is that it makes it an intimate event where visitors can get really close to meet the stars of the show. 

With all the workshops and signings, panels and book launches, this event is going to be such a treat for readers, and of course there is the incredible Shakespeare Rocks extravaganza on the Friday evening, enjoying the works of the great man as they’ve never been seen before! 

Three days of literature, friendship and fun, in the French sunshine. What more could anybody want?"

Tree Magic

One of the biggest surprises for me last time was when I was introduced to writer Harriet Springbett. The surprise being she was a reader of my blog and asked to be introduced to me; a surreal moment given the company we were in. A lot has changed for Harriet in the last two years, with the publication of her beautifully written young adult novel Tree Magic and this year she is not just attending but appearing at the Lit Fest on the Friday and Saturday, something she is really looking forward to: 

“I spent a wonderful weekend meeting authors and other readers at the first edition of the Charroux festival, as you can see from my blog post here. There’s something intimate about the atmosphere – perhaps because it’s so easy to sit and chat to authors over a cup of tea. After receiving such great advice and inspiration at the last edition, I’m looking forward to being able to give something back this year.”

Author James Vance, who I had the pleasure of introducing last time, will be back and officially launching his new historical fiction novel The Housekeeper at this years event. I really enjoyed Something Old, Something New, so am looking forward to finding out more about The Housekeeper.

I'm also looking forward to meeting Vanessa Couchman, author of The House at Zaronza, as she makes her debut appearance at the Lit Fest, running a workshop on creating three dimensional characters. I'm also hoping we might hear news of her latest novel.

For more information on the Charroux Literary Festival visit their website here and you can find them on Facebook and Twitter too. If you are coming along, do let me know and we can enjoy a cup of tea and a piece of cake together. 

This post has been linked to Dreaming of France over at Paulita's An Accidental Blog

The France Show 2014

Next year we will be celebrating ten years of living in France, but before we moved here we were regular visitors to The France Show held every January in London’s Earls Court. For those who have never been, The France Show is three days when the Francophiles of the UK are able to indulge in all things French without having to do battle with Ryanair or worry about French air traffic control strikes! I am delighted to announce that this perfect Francophile weekend, to be held on 17^th to 19^th January 2014, just got even better as I can offer you the fantastic discounted ticket price of £7 per ticket (‘on the door’ admission will be £13). This would make a great Christmas gift for the Francophile in your life.

Perfect Patisseries

Here is what The France Show have to say about their brilliant event.

A fantastic French day out in the heart of London.

Earls Court in London is the place to be for a flavour of France in January!

Enjoy cookery demonstrations from top French chef, Jean-Christophe Novelli and Clotilde Dusoulier, the award-winning food writer, listen to bestselling author Carol Drinkwater, sample fine wines and champagne, visit the French market, pick up holiday ideas, play a game of petanque and enjoy the live entertainment!

Thinking of buying a property in France? Browse thousands of properties for sale in the UK’s largest French Property Exhibition and get the lowdown from the experts in the seminars, which cover all you need to know about buying in France. The best of France in a day!

Fantastic Fromages

For more information and to buy tickets for just £7 each, CLICK HERE and make sure FVD67 is showing in the ‘promotional code’ box.

*OFFER VALID UNTIL 19 JANUARY 2014

TICKETS £13 ON THE DOOR, Children under 16 free of charge

Many thanks to the organisers of The France Show for this fantastic special offer. I’m sure you will have a great day out and I know it sounds silly, but I wish I lived a little bit closer so I could go too! Please feel free to share this post with your French-loving friends.

Ooh La La!

Gastronomades 2013 Angouleme

This weekend, our local town of Angouleme is celebrating the food of France at it's annual Gastronomades Fête. We discovered this event last year and I'm pleased to report it was just as delicious this year. We lunched on warm fouées, a bread pocket cooked in a wood oven and filled with savoury or sweet fillings - we chose sweet and then made our way on a food tour of France. We spent a lovely afternoon walking from one producer offering samples to the next. Everyone was friendly, encouraging us to ask questions, taste and of course buy. The choices were endless. Here are just a few of the delights on offer. If you are in the area and have a free day tomorrow (24th November) do pop along, they even have a mini street farm as well as the food.

Gastronomades 2013 Angouleme

Fouées

Breton Patisseries 

Artisan boulanger

Freshly made crepes

Walnut biscuits

Basque Chorizo 

Basque peppers

Saucisson 

Provence spices and tapenades 

Baudet du Poitou

Cantal cheese from the Auvergne

Art in the street at BarrObjectif 2013

BarrObjectif 2013

French village life isn’t always (often) exciting, lively or happening. I like it for that; the day-to-day calmness is very comforting. One of the greatest things about village life is the quirkiness that you often find just under the surface. Sometimes it is the people; sometimes it is the events that are organised to get the village noticed. One of these annual events is BarrObjectif, held in the small Charentais village of Barro on the banks of the river Charente. For one week, the village turns it’s houses, churches, hedgerows, fields, barns and riverbanks into a photography art gallery.

With close to 45 exhibitions there are quite a variety of themes, styles and subjects taken all over the world. Many of them are ‘make you think’ photographs, but there are those that make you smile too. This year the village church is home to some disturbing images from Syria, finding them in the church made it all the more shocking, but I guess that was the intention. Many of the photos were enhanced by their location, like the scarecrows that were my favourite and although it is undoubtedly a pretty village I think it is enhanced by this exhibition. 

Here are a few images to give you an idea of what is there, and if you happen to be in the area BarrObjectif runs until Sunday, so do pay it a visit.