Poitou-Charentes myths, legends and history - La Grand'Goule

La Grand'Goule, Poitiers

Poitou-Charentes myths, legends and history

 

La Grand’Goule

 

You can’t really have a series of blogs about myths and legends without talking about dragons and luckily for me, the Poitou-Charentes isn’t short of a dragon tail, or two.

 

When Ed moved to Poitiers for university in 2018, it gave us the opportunity to explore the city, that until then hadn’t been much more than an airport or station pick-up or drop-off zone for us. As he’s recently moved flats, we’ve been up and down a lot more than normal, and this has reignited my love for Poitiers and its rich history.

River Clain, Poitiers

 

Today’s tale is set in the watery depths of the Clain river that runs through Poitiers, and is the story of a fearsome dragon, La Grand’Goule and Sainte Radegonde, wife of Clotaire I, King of the Francs in the 6^th Century, and founder of a monastery that used to sit on the site of the current Sainte-Croix Museum. The dragon was said to have used the river and a network of underground tunnels to reach the caves of the monastery, primarily to feast on the nuns. In a perfect ‘good triumphs over evil’ story, it was Sainte Radegonde who freed Poitiers from the beast, saving her nuns, and in time would become the patron saint of the city. Where prayers alone had failed to stop La Grand’Goule, when it was confronted by Radegonde, her crucifix and holy water, the beast suffered a nasty end. 

La Grand'Goule depicted in Lusignan

 

La Grand’Goule was gone, but not forgotten. From the 15^th to 19^th Centuries, an effigy of the dragon was paraded through Poitiers during the three days leading up to Ascension Day. Children would throw small cakes at it and prayers for a good harvest would be said. If you visit the Sainte-Croix Museum you can see the wooden sculpture they used, that is over three hundred years old, or look up at the water tower in the Dolmen residential area where she is painted proudly on high. Stone carvings can also be found on a number of local churches.

 

Having cycled along the Clain river on a misty Christmas Day afternoon, looking over to the cliffs and caves, it was easy to imagine them home to a beast of a dragon with a penchant for snacking on nuns.

 

Here are a few other blogs about things to enjoy in Poitiers:

Loving being a tourist in Poitiers 

Poitiers summer fun 

Poitiers insolite 

  

Poitou-Charentes legends - the cries through the fog

A misty evening in the Deux-Sèvres

Looking back over the last twenty years, autumn days that began with a foggy start, nearly always became hot, sunny afternoons, so much so, opening the shutters to the morning mist, made me smile. This year once more, the weather has thrown a new pattern at us and there have been many days where the sun tried, but failed, to break through the foggy start. 

 

In our department of the Deux-Sèvres in western France, Meteo France reported that on average, September this year was 80% wetter than normal and October 45%, with some hillier areas (around Parthenay) recording levels of rain 150% higher than they are used to. It is no surprise that soil humidity levels have also reached record highs for this time of year, feeding the hungry fog monster that seems reluctant to share with the sunshine. All this just one year on from water restrictions that were brought in mid-October, alongside news articles reporting record low levels in the water table.

 

Foggy fields in the Deux-Sèvres

The low cloud and grey skies this year have at times made me feel quite claustrophobic, and that was before this misty phase began, so I am really hoping this won’t become a new norm thanks to climate instability. Despite my woes, we have fared better than those who live just a bit further north from us, around the Loire valley, where a local news report stated a weather station in Angers hasn’t registered one minute of sunshine in the last ten days. This week, as we celebrated a sunny start with a cycle ride into Chef-Boutonne for morning coffee with friends, we could see the dark, purple bruise of fog looming low on the horizon to our north. 

 

Ile de Ré, Charente-Maritime

Now the 2024 season at the Château de Javarzay is over, I have had more time on my hands to dive into some reading about the legends of the Poitou-Charentes and in particular, places we have visited. When I found one that talked of foggy nights, and an historical battle on Ile de Ré that took place on 8^th November, nearly four hundred years ago, I knew it needed more investigation.

 

Our area has a fascinating link to the rise of the Protestant religion, thanks mainly to the trade routes between Poitiers and the port at La Rochelle. Poitiers university is one of the oldest in France, dating from 1431 and whereas the Sorbonne in Paris had no sympathy for the new religious ideas of the Protestants, they found the academics at Poitiers to be more accommodating. The Protestants felt that the Catholic Church had become too powerful, too corrupt and was making too much money. They wanted a religion that was accessible to everyone, not just those who read Latin, and where simple prayer was more important than the worshipping of relics and paying the church for forgiveness. Their ideas began to spread, mainly with the merchants who were moving towards La Rochelle with wheat, as the limestone rich soil here produced a drier grain that was less likely to rot when loaded onto the sea-going vessels. The inevitable clashes between the supporters of the two religions led to a turbulent time.

 

Sablanceaux beach, Ile de Ré

In 1627, La Rochelle was under siege as Cardinal Richelieu and the troops of Louis XIII closed in around the Protestant stronghold. In June, the Duke of Buckingham had arrived on the Atlantic coast island of the Ile de Ré with eighty boats and around four thousand men, to support the Protestants in La Rochelle. The English landed on the beach in Sablanceaux and gained control of the island from the governor, the Count of Toiras, holding it for three months, until Richelieu sent four thousand troops over from the mainland. 

La Couarde-sur-mer with Loix in the distance, Ile de Ré

The retreating English had one objective, to head west to rejoin their boats moored near Loix. On the 8^th November, at the wooden bridge in Feneau, between La Couarde-sur-mer and Loix, a bloody battle ensued that saw the losses of over two thousand English soldiers and two hundred of their horses. It is said that if you are out on foggy nights on the marshlands around Feneau, the cries and eery moaning of the English soldiers can still be heard, along with a dull voice repeating “tue (kill), tue, tue…” – the echo of the soul of the French troops harangued by their superiors to finish off the English.

 

A typical souvenir shop on Ile de Ré

I’m happy to report that the Ile de Ré is a much more peaceful place to visit these days and somewhere we enjoy cycling, although only outside of the main tourist season. It might no longer be a battleground, but it is still witness to an invasion of thousands of holidaymakers every summer. I wonder how many of them know about the bloody history of the island, or have heard the cries in the fog as they leave the main tourist paths and venture into the marshlands?

 

 

  

Advent postcards, Tumulus de Bougon, Deux-Sèvres

 

Advent postcard, Tumulus de Bougon, Deux-Sèvres

Advent day nineteen

Today’s cycling advent-ures postcard comes from the Tumulus de Bougon museum in the Deux-Sevres where we spent a hot Sunday at the beginning of July.

 

Our visit had been timed to take full advantage of the FREE museum entry on the 1^st Sunday of each month, saving 6€ each, and was part of my 2023 plan to visit as many local museums as I could fit in around work. The only tourist information point in Chef-Boutonne is us at the Château and rather than just hand out leaflets, I wanted to be better able to recommend other places for our visitors. I quickly developed museum envy. Rather than our tiny museum in Javarzay, that is run by the local council, Tumulus de Bougon is on a huge site with a restaurant, indoor exhibits and exhibition space, plus the numerous burial mounds in the outdoor park, all run by the Deux-Sèvres Department. 

 

After a coffee we picked up the audio guides, that we could use in English, and started our visit indoors, learning about seven million years of history and the evolution of man. It was fascinating, but too much for my brain to take in on one visit, which gives us a great opportunity to return. This area in France has a number of standing stones, dolmens and megaliths, often found in woods or fields, but also including one in a residential street in Poitiers. There are many legends that tell tales of giants and fairies moving these huge stones around, but we now know a lot more about them than fairy tales. The first thing I learned was that these tabletop stones or pierre levée are actually the three entrance stones to a long-eroded burial mound – which seemed so obvious when it was pointed out, but not something I’d ever considered before. The museum is home to round and long burial mounds, many of which you can access some of the inner chambers, which is properly exciting for children of all ages. We had a blast exploring and admiring the amazing construction work that predates Stonehenge. 

Pierre Levée, Poitiers

Our day continued with a picnic in the neighbouring village of Pamproux where we then set off on a Terra Aventura bike ride treasure hunt, that gave us even more local history to discover. I can 100% recommend a visit here. 

Advent Day Twenty-three, seeing the light

Christmas lights

Advent Day Twenty-three

Seeing the light

Light is important at this time of year, and with the solstice this week, we (in the northern hemisphere) can celebrate those precious extra minutes of daylight each day. In the nativity, it was a bright light that announced the birth of Jesus to the shepherds and even with the energy crisis, Christmas lights are popping up everywhere. These can be anything from a simple advent candle to a house and garden flashing away and visible from space. In the last few weeks, my Mum has attended a couple of Light up a Life services where candles have been lit to remember loved ones who have died this year.

 

A December rainbow

Our region of France has a small number of unusual historical features called lanternes des morts. These lanterns are tall, thin needles of stone with a cross and an opening at the top, that date from the 11^th to 13^th centuries. Traditionally found in cemeteries, they were lit when someone died and are thought to have helped guide the soul to its final place of rest. Many were destroyed during the Revolution and others were lost when the original cemeteries they were constructed in were moved to larger plots further out of town, meaning those still in existence are quite rare. There is one in a cemetery in Poitiers that when we drove past it this week, I noticed was lit. As there is still quite a lot unknown about them, I find them fascinating and will always try to detour a bike ride to visit one.

 

La Souterraine Lanterne des Morts

This year we have also seen the one in La Souterraine, in the Creuse and Sarlat, in the Dordogne. In La Souterraine, the lantern is fairly typical, with a hexagonal column, topped by a pyramid and a cross and set in the centre of the cemetery, although it’s only been in this location since 1850.

Sarlat Lanterne des Morts

 

The one in Sarlat differs to most of the others we have come across as it has a domed roof, typical of the Perigordian church turrets, and is much larger and more rounded. It is said to have been built to commemorate the miracle of Saint Bernard de Clairvaux and the healing loaves. Returning from the crusades, according to the legend, St Bernard passed through Sarlat and blessed bread that went on to cure the sick or injured who ate it. It is certainly worth a visit if you are in Sarlat.

 

I’ve had a lightbulb moment this week and am now convinced that not only do I feel better and sleep better if I’ve been out on the bike, but that there is also a direct correlation between pedalling and my brain’s ability to remember things. Basically, for every day without a bike ride, my brain cells are dying off - eek!

 

On this day in 1888 Vincent Van Gogh cut off his left ear. Was it madness or because of an argument with Paul Gauguin? Or maybe it was the stress of Christmas that drove him to it, or simply the fact that he hadn’t been out on his bike. 

Advent Day Seventeen, family fun

A family meal at Memphis, Poitiers

Advent Day Seventeen, Family Fun 

We awoke to another -3º morning and a frozen car in need of de-icing, before a careful drive through a beautiful winter landscape, as we made our way to Poitiers. The unused edges of the road were heavy with ice patches, the fields glinting as the sun sparkled on the frost and there was a white dusting visible on the terracotta roof tiles. Herons and egrets, huddled together, necks disappearing into hunched wings, feathers fluffed out, all in an attempt to keep warm. 

 

We were wrapped up well, with many layers, thermal boots, scarves and hats that covered our ears. The wind turbines that had been eerily lost in the fog and darkness of my drive home on Tuesday, revealed a stiff breeze from the east to be the cause of the chill.

 

This week has been a failure in terms of our active travel ambitions. I’ve used the car four days in a row and Adrian was behind the wheel once more, as I scribbled away in my notebook. My bike hasn’t been touched since Monday, which is probably why I’d felt out of sorts and angsty yesterday. At the time I’d put it down to fatigue at the end of a busy week and opted for a book, a blanket and the sofa. Maybe I should have hopped on my bike and reinvigorated my senses with fresh air and blue sky scenery.

My Memphis mountain burger

 

Today was a day for family, fun and celebrations. Ed and I might have spent time together on Tuesday afternoon, but Adrian and Pearl were working. Now the weekend and the holidays have arrived, and we had a voucher to use at what has become our favourite American diner – we didn’t need any more excuses to indulge in a family meal and time together. It was an easy choice from the menu for me, the mountain burger, oozing with delicious melted raclette cheese, making it so much more than a cheeseburger, followed by a café gourmand, three tiny, sweet treats served with ice cream and an espresso coffee. 

L'Hypogée des Dunes, Poitiers

 

Our after-lunch exercise was a walk to an ancient burial ground dating back to the 6^th to 8^th centuries, that would make a fabulous, if rather eerie backdrop to a Halloween evening. The low afternoon sun cast long shadows from the trees, that fell upon the stone caskets, that lay open and empty. Poitiers is certainly a town with many surprises hidden away, but now I’m the proud owner of a new guidebook Je Découvre Poitiers, 7 Balades (I discover Poitiers in seven walks), I’m finding new things with every visit.

 

Our drive home was no less dramatic with a glorious sunset that accompanied the hour-long journey, giving wide open vistas of apricot fire. At times it was only the silhouettes of trees, wind turbines and water towers that broke up the horizon. 

 

Christmas fun, Poitiers

It was a wonderful day spent with special people and I returned home with my belly and my heart full, but can you believe it, Ed and Pearl refused to pose for a family selfie in front of this fine Reindeer. 

Advent Day Fourteen, a story that wanted to be told

Mannekin Pis, Poitiers

Advent Day Fourteen

Today I have a story that wanted to be told so much, it kept popping up in my life, until I took notice.

 

I’m sure you’ve all heard of Manneken Pis, the bronze fountain sculpture of a little boy having a wee, that is one of Brussels’s most famous tourist spots? Well, this week I’ve discovered there is a double, with a lovely story attached to it, and it lives in Poitiers. 

 

In 1940, when Europe was at war and Germany had begun its invasions, Belgium asked France for help, specifically for somewhere safe for their officials to operate from. Despite Poitiers being over six-hundred kilometres from the Belgium border, it was the town that welcomed the government, administration and police from Brussels. It wasn’t a long-term arrangement, in fact one book I read mentions a period of only twenty-six days, but as a token of their thanks, the Belgium police presented a Mannekin Pis to their Poitevin colleagues in May 1950. 

 

I’ve been dipping in and out of local history and tourist books for many years, but it wasn’t until finding Poitiers Remarkable in the library last week, that I discovered this interesting story and so far, none of my local French friends I’ve spoken to have known about it either. Only days later, at a brocante sale in our village, I stumbled upon a small statute of Mannekin Pis on a table of unloved ornaments. As I tried to explain the Poitiers story to some French friends, whilst browsing through the second-hand books, I found Voici Poitiers, a guidebook dating from 1978. There at the back (as if to prove this mad Englishwoman wasn’t quite as batty as they feared) was a page dedicated to the Poitiers Police commissioners very own Mannekin Pis. I think you will agree he was doing his best to get my attention and I’m guessing he wants his story shared with you too.

 

I would love to share a photo of him, but Ed and I loitered outside the Police HQ yesterday afternoon, doing our best to peer in through the closed doors (without arousing suspicions), but neither of us were brave enough to demand entry, just to see their famous little statue. Maybe next time. 

Would you have dared?

Poitiers Remarkable, Geste Editions 2022
Voici Poitiers, Editions Pub 86 1978

Advent Day Thirteen, Poitiers nativity scenes

Nativity scene, St Pierre's Cathedral, Poitiers 

Advent Day Thirteen

Thirteen might be considered unlucky for some, but as I got to spend the day with Ed in Poitiers, today was a lucky day for me. Ed might not think the same, as the reason I was with him was because he had a small procedure at the hospital this morning. I was prepared to spend a calm day, at his side, with lots of books to keep me company, but having tucked into the three-course meal the hospital provided him at lunchtime, he was in tip top form all afternoon. 

My recent finds

 

The great thing about having given birth to a fellow book nerd is that he too fell into the pages of the two books on Poitiers that I recently got my hands on. Over a cup of tea and piece of cake, we poured over the pages before wrapping up warmly and setting out to explore. He might have lived there for four years now, but we are all still learning so much about its history. 

 

Remains of Roman amphitheatre, Poitiers

We covered about seven kilometres on foot (not bad for someone who was under anaesthetic this morning) and as well as taking in the Christmas markets and decorations, we also found what remains of a Roman amphitheatre. Admittedly there isn’t too much left to see now, but in its day, it was one of the largest arenas in the Roman Gaul, measuring one hundred and forty metres in length, holding over thirty-thousand spectators, and was older than the amphitheatre in Nimes or even the Colosseum in Rome. All this history just tucked away and hidden amongst the houses, in a quiet street in Poitiers, just blows my mind.

Beautiful interior of St Radegonde's church, Poitiers

 

Poitiers is famous for its many churches, but we only had time to visit a couple today, both of which had beautiful nativity scenes. It was my first visit to the impressive St Radegonde church, where we were lucky enough to hear the organ playing and enjoy the stained-glass windows, although in the late afternoon gloomy light, the underground crypt where the tomb of St Radegonde lies, was rather creepy, especially when we managed to lose each other. 

The nativity scene at St Radegonde, Poitiers

 

Thanks for a great day Ed. I’m already looking forward to our next visit. 

11th November, villages and towns remember

11th November 2022 in our village

We have now been home from the UK for two weeks. Two rather busy weeks, but without work at the château it has been good to have a variety of things to fill my days with.

 

I can vividly remember our first autumn in France, eighteen years ago. September had been hot, with misty mornings turning into afternoons with temperatures hitting 32º. October was mild, as was the beginning of November. However, as the 11^th of November arrived, so did the cold northerly winds, the air became glacial and winter began to bite. This is a pattern that has repeated itself many times over the years. On Thursday, we awoke to mist. It was much colder than Wednesday and our bike ride out of the village to the egg farm wasn’t fun. The air was heavy with moisture and each pedal stroke felt like the mist was pushing against us and progress was slow. We arrived back home soaked from the water droplets that had seeped into every fibre of our clothing and unlike the September misty mornings, this didn’t lift to reveal sunny skies. The chill it brought with it remained, and the house felt cold. I thought the mid-November weather change had arrived, but just to prove Mother Nature has the final say, yesterday and today have been warm and sunny, lunch-in-the-garden days.

Reading For the Fallen.
Merci Françoise pour cette photo

 

Yesterday, the 11^th November, was Remembrance Day, and a public holiday here in France. It was lovely to catch up with our neighbours and friends outside the salle des fêtes and take part in the memorial service. The maire read out a letter from the government before one of the children laid the floral wreath and then Adrian and I laid our Royal British Legion poppy wreath before reciting the famous verse from For the Fallen by Robert Laurence Binyon, in English (Adrian) and French (me).

 

They shall not grow old, as we that are left grow old:

 

Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.

 

At the going down of the sun and in the morning

 

We will remember them.

 

Lantern des Morts, Pierre Levée cemetery, Poitiers

Growing up, attending this ceremony was something Ed always did, without question, from the age of four. Imagine how proud I was when he sent me a few photos from the local ceremony he’d attended on Friday morning from the Pierre Levée cemetery in Poitiers. It was a slightly larger event than our village one, with a number of dignitaries laying floral wreaths at the foot of the lantern des morts that stands tall and proud in the cemetery, the rows of French and German First World War graves standing silently behind it. As in our village, the council try to involve the younger generation in the ceremony, with each wreath being presented to the person laying it by a younger person from the crowd and Ed was selected to hand the President of the Conseil Départemental de la Vienne his wreath. Well done Ed, but I think Adrian and I deserve a “parenting pat on the back moment” too for bringing him up to realise how important these ceremonies are, and how we must remember the fallen.

 

Today the sun is still with us, so a bike ride with friends to market was a great start to the day. Coffees, croissants, a few chores in town ticked off and lots of laughs and chatter. Buoyed up by a morning outdoors, this afternoon was also spent in the garden, cutting back the fennel and hollyhocks, tidying the daisies and mowing the lawn (maybe for the final time). The doors and windows have been open all afternoon, the washing is out, Ed and Pearl (who arrived last night) have walked the dog, as well as catching up with their friends for lunch out and the back garden looks much tidier. This evening we will enjoy family time together and maybe even aperos in the garden.

 

  

Poitiers summer fun

Place du Maréchal Leclerc, Poitiers

HoliDAYS out and about: Poitiers

This summer, rather than going away for a holiday we are making the most of our holiDAYS out and about, mostly involving the bikes. The first of these was an afternoon in Poitiers, where the relaxed groups of tourists milling around with maps, ensured there was a feel of holidays in the air.

 

There are certain things we like to do on holiday; ride our bikes, sit outside at a café, enjoy warm sunny weather, eat patisseries, drink cold beer and see the sights. I’m pleased to say, we managed all of these in just one afternoon in Poitiers.

Lunch on a terrace, Poitiers 2022

 

We lunched in the main square with the imposing Hôtel du Ville watching over us, as we people-watched the constant flow of activity around us. We might have had the intention of grabbing a quick croque monsieur, but with a menu offering steak frites, followed by a chocolate éclair and a coffee (that came with a biscuit) for less than 12€ each, our resolve crumbled. Seated outside, there was more than enough room for our bikes to join us without getting in the way and the distance between the tables was safe and reassuring. The creamy blossoms of the Japanese Pagoda tree fell like confetti on us, the table, and added a certain something to the salad that accompanied our steak frites. We then set off for a short twelve-kilometre city tour by bike.

Aliénor d'Aquitaine, Poitiers

This year Poitiers is celebrating the 900^th anniversary of Aliénor d’Aquitaine, who (I believe) is the only person to hold both the title of Queen of France and Queen of England. The impressive Palais that is at the heart of the medieval city, was where the Counts of Poitou and the Duchy of Aquitaine held their courts. I haven’t had time so far this summer to book into any of the events being organised but seeing this artwork on the grand steps up to Palais reminded me to check out the calendar, as I really enjoyed the office du tourisme’s guided love-theme walk. 

Parc du Blossac, Poitiers

 

Despite the tourists in the town centre, we had the beautiful Parc de Blossac, that dates from the eighteenth century, almost to ourselves. It’s central fountain and wide tree-lined boulevards, with a bandstand and views over the ramparts feel very Parisian to me and are perfect for enjoying on a bike, but the more intimate Jardin à l'Anglaise and small animal park are best explored on foot. If you look closely on the old stone walls there is evidence of the Nazi occupation, a swastika, and the date 1940, plus a German eagle, carved into the stone at one of the strategic viewpoints over the river. A reminder that the park was requisitioned as a parade ground for the many garrisons of soldiers stationed in the vicinity.

Church of St Hilaire le Grand, Poitiers

We also took advantage of the cool interiors of some of the churches in Poiters, including the church of St Hilaire le Grand (who was the first bishop of Poitiers). This impressive Romanesque church has been welcoming pilgrims on Chemins de St Jacques for hundreds of years and I’m always delighted when my path crosses this ancient pilgrimage route.

Poitiers viewed from the cycle lane flyover

 

In more recent years, Poitiers has come on a long way in terms of being an eco-city and somewhere that is cycle and pedestrian friendly. In our early years in France, on the odd occasion we did venture into the town centre, around family airport or station drop-offs, we quickly remembered why we rarely bothered. It was difficult to access, impossible to park and noisy and unpleasant to walk anywhere because of the constant traffic. The main square becoming pedestrianised was one of the best things they have done, topped only by the fact that the best view of the city is now one that is reserved exclusively for cyclists. It is a city panorama, from the flyover, where two out of the three lanes are now car free. Cycling into town from Ed and Pearl’s flat is a joy. Poitiers took the decision a few years ago, to drastically reduce car access into the city and now the town centre is a hive of people, happily shopping and socialising in the car-free streets. More towns need to follow this example.

Vive l’active travel!

You might also like my holiDAYS out in Melle and Celles-sur-Belle post. 

  

French Trivia Advent Calendar day twenty, Aliénor d'Aquitaine

Advent day 20, IPA beer and Cabernet-Syrah red wine

Advent day twenty, Sunday 20^th December 2020

 

Père Noël visits the village

Père Noël visits the village

We had a bit of excitement in the village today as Père Noël was in town. Normally he would hold a party in the village hall, or salle des fêtes, where his helpers would have laid the tables with decorations, chocolates, mugs of hot chocolate, glasses of orange juice and trays of pastries. The room would be filled with around forty children and their parents, and Christmas music would be the backdrop to excited chatter as they awaited the arrival of Père Noël. Once seated in his chair next to the Christmas tree, he’d hand out the presents stacked beside it. But not this year.

 

One of Père Noël's helpers and her bike

The presents were wrapped, his helpers were ready, but the village hall remained dark and closed. Not to be thwarted by Covid-19, Père Noël found himself a van, his helpers decorated it, filled it with the presents and plenty of Christmas chocolates, and he set off to hand deliver the gifts to the thirty-one under elevens in the village. We must have looked a cheery sight as our slow procession made its way around the village and hamlets, three of us on bikes, ringing our bells, followed by Père Noël and then a second car with a few more helpers and the sound system blasting out festive music. At each house we stopped at, happy faces peered out of windows as they awaited our arrival. Some of the younger ones might have been a little wary of the big man in red, but the excitement in the eyes of those old enough to understand was magical to watch. I may not be an over-the-top Christmas person, but even Covid-19 couldn’t stop me from being one of Père Noël’s helpers in the village again this year.

 

Cathedral St Pierre, Poitiers

France Trivia advent calendar, day twenty, Aliénor d’Aquitaine (1122-1204)

Living as we do in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of France, the name of Aliénor (or Eleanor) of Aquitaine, is one we stumble across quite regularly. Eleanor truly was a grande dame of the middle ages, who not only inherited the vast lands of the duchy of Aquitaine, which included the Poitou, Limousin and Gascony areas of south west France, but was also the queen consort of both France and England. Her first marriage was to Louis VII, who became king of France, but they separated when she was thirty as after fifteen years, she had yet to bear him a son. Her second husband was Henri Plantagenet, count of Anjou, duke of Normandy and future king (Henry II) of England. They married in Poitiers and the impressive cathedral, which is right outside Ed’s flat, was built at her request. During the next thirteen years she had eight children, including five sons, three of whom became kings. One of her sons was Richard the Lionheart. She died when she was eighty-two, which strikes me as a pretty great age to reach in the twelfth century.