La Rochelle
The Sèvre Niortaise and Charente Tour
Who says holidays need to be far away and in exotic locations? Not me! We have just spent a fantastic week cycle touring, taking in rural river valleys, the second largest wetlands area in France, the Atlantic coast, salt marshes, vineyards, historic buildings, and monuments – including the last working transbordeur bridge in France, and we were never more than 80kms from home.
This post is the nuts and bolts of the tour for all our cycling friends who have expressed an interest in the routes, cycle paths and infrastructure as well as cycle-friendly places to stay. It includes links to the GPS routes, the accommodation we used and just some of our photos.
Fully loaded Bromptons at the source of the Sèvre Niortaise river
Day 1 – Sepvret to Niort 72kms
Starting at the source of the Sèvre Niortaise river and following this as close as possible to Niort. We pick up the newly created V94 in Exoudun.
There is a bar in the square at Le Mothe-st-Héray (KM18) (the short detour to the Orangery as you arrive in town is recommended) and plenty of bars and restaurants in the military town of St-Maixent-l’Ecole (KM30). Following the river closely, this route can get quite steep in places as you climb out of the valley, but the climbs are short and manageable.
Really good patisserie stop just before KM43 in La Creche.
The track sections from KM44 to KM50 are pretty good.
Pick up the Velo Francette at KM59 by the Château Coudray-Salbart dating from the Middle Ages, and follow this into Niort, avoiding the dogleg just after KM62.
Highly recommend the restaurant Douc’Heure De Maroc off Place Brèche run by a local Moroccan family. Great value tajine.
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| The dragon snakes of Niort |
Don’t miss the famous bronze dragon snakes that rise from the pedestrian streets in Niort and the Franck Ayroles ladies on the bench in Les Jardins de la Brèche are worth a photo stop.
AirBnB accommodation very close to the covered market and Donjon.
NOTE: All accommodation on this trip is ground floor and easily accessible for 2 people and their Bromptons.
On the Vélo Francette in the Marais Poitevin
Day 2 - Niort to La Rochelle 100kms
Leave Niort on the Velo Francette following the river all the way to Coulon at the entrance to the Marais Poitevin (KM17). The Marais Poitevin is the second largest wetlands site in France (after the Camargue) and a haven for wildlife. There are good bars and restaurants in Coulon – it can get busy in tourist season. Perhaps stop and take a barque (punt boat) onto the marais but we prefer to do this from the less busy town of Arçais further on. Leave the Francette and follow the easy and very pretty road to Irleau (KM23).
Staying off the Francette follow the road and trail to Arçais at KM28. The Francette avoids this town and it is such a shame as it is lovely. Take a picnic on a barque from the embarquerie du martin pecheur. A 1 hour rental at lunch time grants to an additional 45 minutes free to stop at their remote picnic island in the middle of the marais forest.
Continue to Damvix (KM32) more bars here. Divert off the Francette again to Bazois (KM35). Then follow the Francette to Marans at KM 58. This is a long section.
After Marans, we could smell the salty sea air as we continued to the coast where the Sèvre meets the Atlantic. However, if you need to press on to La Rochelle then follow the Francette alongside the Napoleonic canal all the way into the centre of La Rochelle. Pop into Dompierre-sur-Mer if you need a bar stop.
The fabulous cycle routes approaching La Rochelle
We came inland from the coast as the coastal path is a bit tricky on tyres. KM72 to 89 is a mix of easy road and great dedicated cycle tracks that are well used by the locals.
KM 89 to 91 joins a slightly busier road to skirt the runway at the airport, but it is perfectly safe. Then join the wonderful cycle network through La Rochelle at KM92. Using this route means you arrive into La Rochelle from the ocean side rather than from the land side. There is one large industrial estate to bypass and look out for the large WW2 submarine pens in the port. Then savour La Rochelle which has become a cycling wonderland and has to be one of the best cities in France. A visit to Café de la Paix is a must.
Apartment in ancient town house.
A nice idea here, if you have the time, would be to spend an extra night and cycle over the bridge to Ile de Ré. The highlights of the island can easily be covered in a day. The toll bridge is free to cyclists who have a dedicated path safely separated from the road. In high season the cycle paths on the island can get very busy.
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| The Atlantic coast Vélodyssée |
Day 3 – La Rochelle to Rochefort 65kms
Leave La Rochelle following the coast on the well signposted EV1 Vélodyssée.
Sample the divert around Angoulins to follow the coast around this little headland at KM9.
Chatelaillon Plage (KM17) is a classic French seaside resort and has plenty of bars and restaurants.
It is really worth diverting to Fouras at KM29. The route into town follows the old deserted railway line and passes some of the traditional carelet fishing huts built on stilts in the water. The town itself is lovely and sports a splendid Vauban fort guarding the entrance to the Charente river.
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| Fort Vauban, Fouras, Flow Vélo |
Leave Fouras and stick to the coastal path from KM38 to 42. This is worth the detour although it can be narrow in places. It was a highlight section of our trip.
Follow the EV 1 into Rochefort and around the edge of the Rochefort peninsula. The cycle way here is very good. Pass under the huge road bridge and arrive at the pont transbordeur at KM61. It is the last bridge of its type in France and has been recently renovated.
Pont Transbordeur, Rochefort
NOTE - If you are en route to Bordeaux via the EV1 we would recommend crossing the river here, on the pont, rather than following the official route to the east of Tonnay sur Charente. Crossing the bridge is an experience not to be missed. Then rejoin the EV1 just east of Echillais and follow it on the old railway line although a diversion to the fortified town of Brouage in the middle of the marais is a must and it is such a shame that it is bypassed by the EV1.
Today’s route ends in the royal dockyards at Rochefort. Rochefort is a great town for travelling around in. There is not much dedicated cycling infrastructure, but all roads are laid out on a grid iron pattern and every road gives way at every junction. Plenty of one-way streets but almost all of them allow cycles to travel in both directions. The courtesy and patience of the drivers in this town is lovely.
AirBnB apartment in a lovely old town house.
River Charente, Rochefort, Flow Vélo
Day 4 – Rochefort to Cognac 90kms
This was a big day and was over six hours in the saddle despite taking some shortcuts.
The route follows the relatively new FlowVelo V92. The trail sections are not all well surfaced until the outskirts of Cognac where they greatly improve. Public toilets and benches were a bit thin on the ground too.
The initial run out of Rochefort and through Tonnay sur Charente (KM7) follows really well-planned cycle paths alongside the main road. The old suspension bridge is worth a look although you will need good climbing legs to get up to crossing level. It is open only to pedestrians and cyclists. You would understand why if you crossed it…
From here the trail sections are variable with some very narrow or very rutted. There are bypass routes following local roads which you could divert on to at many points. Don’t forget to look out for storks who arrive here for a summer of breeding.
Saintes
Saintes at KM53 is a busy town but with all facilities. Plenty of evidence of the Roman occupation here too.
At KM71 we finally had had enough of the variable quality trails and hit the road all the way to KM82 at Pres Menu where the trail surfaces get noticeably better. This point marks the crossing from the Charente Maritime department into the Charente. From now, all the way to Angouleme and beyond to Nontron, the trail sections on the Flow Vélo are superb.
The final run into Cognac follows the old railway line and ends up at the main quay where you will find the impressive Hennessy cognac house. Many Cognac houses in the city offer guided tours.
Beware the roads in town are busy and the drivers are not too courteous. It was quite a shock after La Rochelle and Rochefort.
Large open plan loft accommodation behind the park.
Cognac, Flow Vélo
Day 5 – Cognac to Angoûleme 62kms
The FlowVélo splits between these 2 cities. We followed the northern route partly because it passes through the lovely town of Jarnac in time for a croissant and coffee.
A mixture of road and trail but all well signposted for the V92. The trail after Jarnac from KM18 to KM36 via Chateauneuf is superb. We had planned a divert onto the road to save some time but the trail was so good that we stayed on it.
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| Wall art in Angoûleme |
You can divert to the southern loop following the river at KM41 but we decided to follow the river and it is a nice section. KM49 to 54 is a little busier with traffic but nothing serious before picking up the river trail at KM54 all the way into the city of Angouleme. Angouleme is built on an outcrop of rock. Plan your access. The marked route is about the easiest we know at about 7% incline. This can increase to stupid % on some of the other routes into the city.
Le Bruleau Charentais, Angoûleme
If you like steak then there is only one place to head for your Entrecote aux Echalottes cooked over an open fire in the Bordealise fashion: Le Bruleau Charentais on Rue de Beaulieu. Fabulous and very reasonably priced restaurant.
AirBnB apartment in the centre of the city.
Great (cheap) coffee in the covered market at the Italian deli – don’t forget to buy your croissant from the boulangerie in the market halle first.
Getting here
There are TGV services from Paris Montparnasse or Lille to Poitiers, St-Maixent-l”Ecole, Niort, La Rochelle and Angouleme. Ordinary train services to other major towns on the route.
Regular flights from various UK airports to La Rochelle or Poitiers.
I'm saving this one for Rick. You never know!
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