Gout de France 2019 and review of The 7 Wonders of Olive Oil

©Goût de France/Good France 2019

Goût de France 2019

Today, 21st March, is #GoutdeFrance #GoodFrance or taste of France day; an annual event where chefs of the world are encouraged to celebrate French food, with the emphasis on fresh, seasonal and local produce. I love French food and I am loving the play on words here too! Goût de, translated, means taste of, but rather than #TasteofFrance day we have Good France day – get a Frenchman to say, “goût de France” and “good France” and they will sound the same.

The 7 Wonders of Olive Oil
by Alice Alech and Cécile le Galliard

Provence

This year the spotlight is on the food of Provence and I’m sure you’ll agree, nothing says Provence produce quite like Olive Oil, so it’s a perfect day to review The 7 Wonders of Olive Oil by Alice Alech and Cécile le Galliard. Alice, who lives in Provence, has already published An Olive Oil Tour of France and in this new book she has teamed up with Cécile, a French expert in olive oil tasting.

The 7 Wonders of Olive Oil by Alice Alech and Cécile le Galliard

The main focus of this book is explaining the 7 wonders of olive oil; seven powerful claims about the health benefits to our bodies when we regularly use extra-virgin olive oil, from our brain cells (Alzheimer’s) to our bones (osteoporosis), our hearts (strokes and heart attacks) to our skin (largest organ in our bodies) and more (the big C). It is a lot to take in and backed up by a lot of studies, reports and findings, but it doesn’t feel that it’s written for scientists or food experts, so never swamped me or lost me. Alongside the research there are personal case studies, tips and recipes and it certainly helped my understanding of the different types of fats we eat; good ones and bad ones, as well as explaining the different types of olive oils on the market and what the labels really mean. As you would expect this book promotes the Mediterranean diet and use of olive oil in our kitchens, but that isn’t all, there are beauty tricks too, using olive oil rather than chemical-containing over-the-counter cosmetic products.

At the end of the book there is also a 25-question quiz, with comprehensive answers; whether this is there to ensure we were paying attention as we read it, or to provide a quick and easy reference point, I don’t know, but either way I thought it was a great idea.

This would be an excellent book for those of you like me who prefer the idea of prevention rather than cure and who do your best to maintain a healthy diet and lifestyle to help prevent illness. One message that came over for me was the sad fact that we have forgotten the importance of the quality of our food, have lost interest in where our food comes from and what processes were involved in getting it to our plates. What we eat really does have an impact on our long-term health and it has made me think about the oil I buy, and I know I will be adding a tablespoon or two of good extra virgin olive oil into my daily diet.

You may also enjoy

My review of An Olive Oil Tour of France by Alice Alech.

Alice’s Provençal Style Yoghurt and Olive Oil cake recipe.

My France et Moi interview with Alice.

Gout de France 2018

Bon apetit and I hope you get the chance to enjoy some delicious French food today.

O is for Onions and Olives

French food alphabet advent calendar

Welcome to today’s post in my French Food Alphabet Advent Calendar series - a foodie’s countdown to Christmas Day, sharing posts including French regional specialities, my personal favourite foods, and some new recipes. I hope you are enjoying your virtual tastings.

It’s the 15^th December and O is for Onions and Olives.

There is nothing quite like the flavour of onions gently softened in butter and seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. I rarely cook a main meal that doesn’t contain onions and as much as I love my daily coffee and dark chocolate, I think if I had to choose between onions and chocolate, I would pick onions.

I have previously written about the pink onions from Roscoff and shared a French onion soup recipe here. So today I’m combining onions with olives in a delicious tart called a Pissaladière, one of my favourite recipes from Rick Stein's French Odyssey.

Ingredients

Pissaladière

Pizza base (see here for my recipe)

50ml olive oil

A knob of butter

1.5kg of onions, thinly sliced

A bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay leaves and rosemary)

Anchovy paste

6 to 8 anchovy fillets, halved

Black olives, enough to decorate

Salt and pepper

Using a frying pan with a lid, cook the onions (seasoned with the bouquet garni, salt and pepper) in the oil and butter for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Uncover and continue cooking until all the moisture has evaporated, then discard the bouquet garni.

Roll the dough out to a rectangle and place it on an oiled baking tray 30 x 37.5cm. Spread with a thin layer of anchovy paste and then spread the onions evenly over the top leaving a small border around the edges. Criss-cross the top with the anchovy fillets and dot with the black olives. Leave to rise slightly for 15 mins and then bake in a pre-heated very hot oven for 15 to 20 mins. The crust will have browned and the onions will have caramelized to perfection. Serve warm and enjoy the heavenly combination of freshly baked bread and soft, sweet onions.

For more information on olive production in France see my review of An Olive Oil Tour of France by Alice Alech.

Don’t forget to pop back tomorrow for the letter P, our locally produced aperitif. If you have missed my previous advent posts you can catch up by clicking on the letters A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M and N. 

Courgette Caviar Recipe

In honour of the new Royal baby, well as this is just about the poshest sounding courgette (zucchini) recipe ever I definitely think it is one fit for royalty, I thought I would share my courgette caviar recipe. This was introduced to me by French friends Hélène et Françoise last year we are now hooked - it is so delicious and a real taste of summer aperos.

The flavour combinations are sublime, it is fresh and zingy, plus it is a great way to use up the inevitable courgette glut (that I know so well). It is easy to make and it keeps well in the fridge – it is the perfect recipe. I have also tried freezing it and although it comes back a little watery it works fine.

We have it with our aperos; spread onto toasts or baguette slices, plus as a dip for breadsticks and carrot sticks, or for a lunch we spread it onto grilled vegetables (aubergines, courgettes and squashes) and top them with grated cheese.  It is delicious all ways. Go on, give it a go, you won’t regret it.

Courgette caviar perfect for aperos

Ingredients

4 courgettes

2 small onions

2 garlic cloves

85g black olives (optional)

4 mint leaves

3 large basil leaves

A bunch of parsley

Juice of a lemon

1 tsp of thyme

Natural yoghurt or crème fraiche (optional)

Wash and cut the courgettes into small cubes, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast until soft.

Stone the olives, if using, and chop finely with the onions, garlic, mint, basil and parsley. When the courgettes are cooked, mix with the herb mixture and leave to chill. Blend when cold then add the lemon juice and thyme and check seasoning. If you would like, add natural yoghurt or crème fraiche just before serving to get the desired spreadable or dip-able consistency.

France et Moi with author Alice Alech

An Olive Oil Tour of France by Alice Alech

Welcome to ‘France et Moi’ where this week I’m talking to Alice Alech, author of An Olive Oil Tour of France, about what France means to her.

About Alice

Alice, who considers Provence home, has lived off and on in France for a number of years only leaving to follow her husband on his foreign affairs posts. Alice writes non-fiction and especially likes researching her projects and getting people to open up and talk about their passion. You can read my review of her book here.

France et Moi interview

Firstly, I think France is a special place and it is famed for many things including its cheese, wine and diverse holiday locations plus, dare I say it strikes and dog poo littered streets. What do you think makes France so very unique and ‘French’?

Alice: For me it’s all about the diversity and the sheer abundance of French culture. Each region with its own food specialty, its own architecture – churches, monasteries and world class museums. There’s so much to discover, so much to learn, I guess that’s why France is the number one tourist destination.

2) When you first arrived in France what was the best thing about being immersed in French life and the scariest thing?

Alice: I spoke hardly any French when I first arrived in Paris; everyone, it seemed, was in a hurry with little patience for poor me; but then one day while gazing  at the tv screen, it happened -- for the first time, I got  the gist of the news. I still remember downing two gin and tonics one after the other, such was my joy.

The scariest? Going through divorce procedures in a foreign country within one year of marriage – now that’s another story.

3) Every region in France has it’s own culinary specialty, do you have a favourite regional dish?

Alice: No, I don’t. I love it all, especially when made with a good dollop of olive oil that which makes Provencal cuisine so special, so healthy.

4) France has many different cheeses, a silly question, but which French cheese are you? A hard and mature Tome, a soft, fresh and lively goat cheese, the creamy and rich Camembert or maybe the salty and serious Roquefort?

Alice: Tome or Tomme de Savoie, despite the hard thick exterior, the cheese itself is tender, smooth and earthy.

5) Where did your love of olive oil start?

Alice: When I started writing for an American on line journal covering olive oil news, reviews and olive oil stories in France. On one of my first interviews I was taught how to taste olive oil from a lovely producer in the Var, my department. He was patient, understanding and passionate about his oil. I wanted to know more.

6) If you could choose just two accompaniments to olive oil what would they be and how would you serve them?

Alice: More than anything, I learnt that olive oil can replace butter.

Olive oil and mashed potatoes are a sublime combination especially if you use good extra virgin. Mix some garlic in olive oil over very gentle heat for about 10 minutes. Add this to the mashed potatoes instead of butter and season well. You can then add milk until you get the right consistency.

If you like sweet red peppers, grill them, remove the skin and serve with a mixture of olive oil, salt, garlic and lemon juice. Simple, sweet and healthy.

7) I enjoyed the fact that your book An Olive Oil Tour of France had information, case stories and recipes. Were these your own recipes? Do you have a recipe you would like to share with us?

Alice: No, I’m not that good in the kitchen. My good friend Madeleine, who runs the traditional Cooking in Provence School kindly, shared some of her favourites.

Tomorrow I shall post the recipe for a Provencal style yoghurt cake made with olive oil and quince that Alice has sent me this week and it is delicious.

8) How would you explain that very unique French concept of ‘terroir’ and does it have a bearing on olives as well as wine?

Alice: Although the olive oil regions are principally in the south of France, the soil and climatic conditions of these regions are not the same – Provence and Corsica for example have different soil content, and weather conditions – you can even add savoir faire to the list if we are talking olives. It’s the geographic and environmental conditions – the complex relationship - the terroir that will make the olive and olive oil from a region so unique.

In my book I compare wine and olive oil; there are similarities yes, both rich with tradition and heritage provoking many discussions on production methods, health benefits and tastes. There are dissimilarities though.

9) If we are lucky enough to find an olive oil mill whilst we are visiting Provence do you recommend we stop for a visit?

Alice: Most definitely. Olive oil mills, especially the old traditional ones which are slowly disappearing, are fascinating and all the producers I’ve met love telling a story or two. You get to taste oils, tapenades and other olive oil delights. If you can get to an olive oil fair, that’s even better.

10) If money and commitments were no object where in France would you like to own a property and what sort of place would it be?

Alice: It would be a little hideout in Corsica. Corsica has always fascinated me – the wild beauty, the history, the   people, their unique culture and yes, the beaches of the Mediterranean beauty. But my love for sea, sun and solitude would take me to the west coast. I would love to be able to escape to a little house near the Golf of Porto with a huge balcony where I could admire the Calanques, the bright red cliffs   and rocks that plunge into the deep Mediterranean.

Finally do you have any current projects you would like to tell my readers about?

Alice: My short-term plan is to distribute An Olive Oil Tour of France in France. Granted, it is an unusual subject but if you live  in France it’s good to  understand why French olive oil is not on the middle shelf on our supermarkets, why extra virgin is so expensive and more than anything, to appreciate this little known product.

Thank you for taking the time to answer some questions about France and you.

Alice: Thank you Jacqui, for including me in France et Moi, and congratulations on your blog which is now one of my favourites, you write from the heart, all good all relevant. 

An Olive Oil Tour of France is available from Amazon as an ebook and also a small (69 page) paperback.

An Olive Oil Tour of France by Alice Alech

An Olive Oil Tour of France by Alice Alech

An Olive Oil Tour of France

I have been spending some virtual time in the South of France learning about olives and olive oil.  In her book An Olive Oil Tour of France , Alice Alech takes novices and enthusiasts (that’s me) behind the scenes of the French olive oil industry.

My Review

In France, unlike Spain and Italy, most producers are small and strive for quality over quantity and importantly preserving their heritage.  In this book we meet some of the family run enterprises from the growers in Corsica, to the mill owners in Provence and even the soap makers from Marseille still using a cauldron to make the traditional olive oil soap.  Alice also introduces The Olive Garden project where children have been involved in planting 400 trees, caring for them, harvesting and producing oil to take home, a very important project for future generations of olive growers. 

We learn how to taste olive oil and like in wine how important that French phenomenon of terroir is (I love that word that basically means the influence soil and position have on the taste of grapes or olives).  One of my regrets is that last time we were in Provence we didn’t stop at one of the mills to buy (or try) ‘real’ olive oil, but next time with Alice’s tasting notes to hand I will feel more confident to give it a go.  Real olive oil tasting, for the experts, seems even more complex than wine tasting and includes something called the ‘retro nasal sensation’ – I bet you didn’t know that did you?

I love France and since moving here my relationship with food has changed for the better and I consider myself fairly knowledgeable when it comes to the French way of healthy eating, but this book still taught me new things.   It is a good mix of informative but without going too deep in a way that would make the average enthusiast switch off.  Alice also includes some recipes in the book, both edible ones and beauty ones that highlight the olive oil benefits to our hair and skin.  I will be giving the hair conditioning treatment a try.  As you would expect the food recipes are all very Mediterranean but they are not exclusively Provencal.  One of my favourites was a savoury ‘apero’ cake with rosé wine in the ingredients list, now that is my kind of cake.  

Thank you for contacting me and offering me a copy of this book Alice, it has been a very enjoyable journey.  For the moment this is an ebook only, but at a price of £1.94 it is very good value.  A paperback version should be available before Christmas.

You can follow Alice’s blog ‘Provencial Provence’, which has a lot of tasty, foodie posts here.